Chris Williams' Journal
Home Page: Chris W
Gosford, NSW, Australia
| Total Posts: 225 | Latest Post: 2026-01-22 |
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I've been critical of POs regarding the disassembly and the reassembly of components and the lack of care when it comes to using the correct fasteners in the same place they came off from.
Now, because of my machinists 'chuck the bolts in a box' strategy, I find myself in the same position.
Some of the bolts are very similar but have distinct markings on the head - for eg. there are two identical bolts that are similar to about 5 other bolts but one has an 'R' on the head, the other has an 'S' on it. They look a bit special and I would think go in a particular spot.
After posing the question on the forum and getting support but no help, I went looking at some of my old photos and after discussing it with David came to some conclusions.
The 2 bolts that had the 'R' and the 'S' on each head were from the top of the rear engine plate. Why they are marked that way I don't know. The big bunch of bolts are from the back plate.
The only guess I had to make was between 2 sets of 3, 1/4" bolts. One lot for the camshaft retaining plate and the other the oil strainer.
I chose the longer ones for the camshaft retaining plate but when it came time to attach the strainer, I found that I needed the longer ones there. I had new ones the same size as the shorter ones but not the longer ones. I solved that by leaving out the locking washers and used locktite on the threads instead.
The bolts on the sump where a mish-mash anyway and by combining the bolts from the sump and the timing cover, I was able to get 19 good sump bolts and I'll buy 5 new 1/4" bolts for the timing cover.
I can't continue as I need some more, or thicker shims for the crankshaft behind the smaller sprocket.
The measurement is .028" and the 3 shims that are there are well short of that.
I may machine a .7mm shim at school tomorrow if I have some suitable stock to machine from.
I made one error in my assembly procedure and that was to put the head on before I'd put the cam, tappet and push rods in. I was able to get around it by sliding the rockers away and dropping the push rods down but some of the rods wouldn't fit under the rockers without levering the valves down a little. The two end ones needed the split pin removed and the rockers taken off and put back with the rods fitted in their socket.
Not a big deal, but a bit messy.
That was on Wednesday.
Today I made a shim and the makings for a couple of woodruff keys.
The shim was a bit difficult as I had no stock big enough dia. 1 7/16".
So I found a piece of sheet that measured about 0.45mm and drilled a 1Â 1/8" dia hole in it and traced around a shim to get the outside dia., cutting it out on the bench shears and using the disc sander to get it to shape. After removing the burs, I think it will be fine with some of the shims added to it.
The woodruff keys are simply 5/8" dia round stock with a few 0.71mm thick discs parted off them. I'll cut the segments off to make the keys tomorrow.
I also found some 3/16" sq. rod to form up and repair the keyway in the pulley with loctite 660.
I'll try to repair the keyways in the shaft and pulley individually so the location of the key will be more accurate.
Now, because of my machinists 'chuck the bolts in a box' strategy, I find myself in the same position.
Some of the bolts are very similar but have distinct markings on the head - for eg. there are two identical bolts that are similar to about 5 other bolts but one has an 'R' on the head, the other has an 'S' on it. They look a bit special and I would think go in a particular spot.
After posing the question on the forum and getting support but no help, I went looking at some of my old photos and after discussing it with David came to some conclusions.
The 2 bolts that had the 'R' and the 'S' on each head were from the top of the rear engine plate. Why they are marked that way I don't know. The big bunch of bolts are from the back plate.
The only guess I had to make was between 2 sets of 3, 1/4" bolts. One lot for the camshaft retaining plate and the other the oil strainer.
I chose the longer ones for the camshaft retaining plate but when it came time to attach the strainer, I found that I needed the longer ones there. I had new ones the same size as the shorter ones but not the longer ones. I solved that by leaving out the locking washers and used locktite on the threads instead.
The bolts on the sump where a mish-mash anyway and by combining the bolts from the sump and the timing cover, I was able to get 19 good sump bolts and I'll buy 5 new 1/4" bolts for the timing cover.
I can't continue as I need some more, or thicker shims for the crankshaft behind the smaller sprocket.
The measurement is .028" and the 3 shims that are there are well short of that.
I may machine a .7mm shim at school tomorrow if I have some suitable stock to machine from.
I made one error in my assembly procedure and that was to put the head on before I'd put the cam, tappet and push rods in. I was able to get around it by sliding the rockers away and dropping the push rods down but some of the rods wouldn't fit under the rockers without levering the valves down a little. The two end ones needed the split pin removed and the rockers taken off and put back with the rods fitted in their socket.
Not a big deal, but a bit messy.
That was on Wednesday.
Today I made a shim and the makings for a couple of woodruff keys.
The shim was a bit difficult as I had no stock big enough dia. 1 7/16".
So I found a piece of sheet that measured about 0.45mm and drilled a 1Â 1/8" dia hole in it and traced around a shim to get the outside dia., cutting it out on the bench shears and using the disc sander to get it to shape. After removing the burs, I think it will be fine with some of the shims added to it.
The woodruff keys are simply 5/8" dia round stock with a few 0.71mm thick discs parted off them. I'll cut the segments off to make the keys tomorrow.
I also found some 3/16" sq. rod to form up and repair the keyway in the pulley with loctite 660.
I'll try to repair the keyways in the shaft and pulley individually so the location of the key will be more accurate.









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