Chris Williams' Journal

My Makita Planner, Broken Screw. Off Topic

Thu, 22 Jan 2026 02:46:07 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

[b]This is the question asked and my solution posted on OFF Topic[/b] Here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/off-topic-forum.47/my-makita-hand-planer-an-oldie-and-a.5016366/ These are some pics of the cutter head. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/883663/IMG_3942.jpeg[/img] [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/883664/IMG_3941.jpeg[/img] I’ve stripped it down as far as I think I need to to try and extract the broken screw in the Aluminium. Probably my own fault. I don’t remember doing this and it’s probably just a couple of years since I must have but I’m pretty sure I must have put these in with some loctite. Idiot move. Anyway, this one just broke the head off flush. It’s only the guide to hold the cutter while you adjust the depth but adjusting the cutter is difficult enough without having the guide flopping around as well. The brass screw is just in the other hole for reference. Any thoughts on how to get this out. Haven’t tried anything yet, don’t want to make it worse. Anyone had successfull experience with dissolving loctite? [b]After some discussion this is what I did.[/b] NEVER, EVER, have I had this much success doing something like this. I'm back home now and had a go at this. the plan was to heat soak it in my oven for an hour or so and I used the hottest setting I could. The oven has a self cleaning mode which heats the oven to about 300º C. It may not get that hot, the highest temp written on the dial is 250º and there's 3 graduation marks after that so it the marks prior to that are any guide, it may be about 280º. anyway it was hot enough to 'blue' the shaft. After letting it cool in the oven for about 2 hours after switching off, I hoped the Loctite would be degraded enough to allow me to use a sharp push and maybe turn the screw a little so I could work it out. No such luck and I didn't want to muck up the top surface so I gave that away. After a bit of deliberation I thought, 'what the heck', I'll set it up in the drill press and see if I can run a small drill through the centre. Used a new 2.0mm drill bit, centre punched an estimated centre and very warily drilled a hole through the middle of the screw. Took it really slowly and that went well. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884361/IMG_3976.jpg[/img] I think I had it pretty well centred. I checked the drilling size for a 4mm x 0.7 thread and it was 3.3mm. Okay, so I went to 2.5mm and got this, which then told me it's not in the centre. Hmm, not much chance of doing anything about that! [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884362/IMG_3977.jpg[/img] Then I remembered Haps comment about using a mill. I don't have a mill, but with a more rigid drill bit and the vice locked down, maybe I can get a 3mm drill to cut more precisely in the centre. I have a set of stubby drill bits so I used the 3mm drill from that and set the vice off centre in the direction the hole needs to move to. Taking the drilling VERY slowly I may be able to centre everything up and take that drill through to the end of the bolt. To my surprise, I was able to do that without any deflection of the bit. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884367/IMG_3982.jpg[/img] And achieved what I thought I would never be able to do. I could see the thread inside the hole all the way around. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884363/IMG_3978.jpg[/img] Then very gingerly I started the tap into the hole after attempting to pick out some of the remnants of the screw and blowing out the residue with compressed air. Taking it slowly and after each turn, taking the tap out and blowing out any residue, I successfully cleaned the thread out. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884364/IMG_3979.jpg[/img] And this is what I got. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884365/IMG_3980.jpg[/img] Put a good screw it and success. It's a bit loose as it starts off but as the screw gets deeper it doesn't have too much play. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884366/IMG_3981.jpg[/img] Really pleased with the result. These are the drills and the tap that I used. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/phile/47/884368/IMG_3984.jpg[/img] I'm calling this done! I'll have to get a new set of screws. I might see if I can get some just a little longer. Thanks, everyone for your input.

Posted 2026-01-22 02:46:07 by Chris W

Exhaust Sitting On The Ground.

Tue, 08 Nov 2022 07:58:36 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Haven't done much here for a while and I'm still to resolve the last two projects that have been started here, but... moving on... Car hasn't been running well of late and I just haven't had the time or the motivation to do anything about it. I was behind the car recently and noticed something odd. The exhaust was hanging down at the back to the point it was actually resting on the ground. The rear hangers had failed AND the centre hanger as well. Rego was due and I simply did not have the time to do the checks and fixes. It's unfortunate that all 3 of my cars have their registration due in October. Anyway consequently the MG is past its rego date so I'm on a short timeline to get it running right and passed. This is about the centre hanger. It's never had the proper hanger here and I don't have any faith in the quality of the proper hanger to spend the $s to buy it. Previous hanger was a piece of car tyre with 2 holes in it and it lasted a fair while. So, using the same principle as the axle straps, I made this using some SS sheet and a length of old seat belt. I'm a bit worried about the heat but I'll let you know how it goes. It's one piece of seat belt that is looped down and around a bush that the bolt goes through and doubles back up into the folded keeper bolted to the body. It comes apart so I can replace the webbing when it breaks or use something else if it proved unsatisfactory. The metal loop, the top keeper and the bush are made from Stainless Steel. Stainless is a little difficult to drill and my holes aren't perfect, as you can see, but I'm happy.

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Posted 2022-11-08 07:58:36 by Chris W

Poor Mans In Dash GPS

Fri, 06 Dec 2019 08:58:51 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

An old phone and a plan. [img]https://www.mgexp.com/journal/pictures/338485/IMG_20191206_191640_000.jpg[/img]

<IMG 20191206 191640>	<IMG 20191206 191709>	<IMG 20191206 191819>
<IMG 20191206 192104>	<IMG 20191206 192705>	<IMG 20191206 192722>
<IMG 20191206 192931>	<IMG 20191206 192944>	<IMG 20191206 193006>
<IMG 20191206 193254>

Posted 2019-12-06 08:58:51 by Chris W

Estwing H. R. #2 Ep2

Sun, 13 Jan 2019 03:09:16 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

OK, Next episode. After a general clean up with a wire cup brush: [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7459_zpsc0ttxc3y.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7461_zpsfmxmbepc.jpg[/IMG] The plan: Replace the 2 rivet posts with some internally threaded rod. I used some old broken Hex Drill bits for these, drilled out with a 11/64" (4.3mm) and tapped 5mmx0.8. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7464_zpsdb7f0kme.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7465_zpskraxluyo.jpg[/IMG] This is what is proposed: [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7467_zps3e6ndrsy.jpg[/IMG] Decided to braze rather than weld. Had some difficulty holding/supporting them in the correct place, but eventually got this: [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7468_zpsncbfxqeu.jpg[/IMG] Then with the threads cleaned up and the braze cleaned up, the screws will go in. SS, BTW. Just what I had, thinking that I'll change them to Allen head later. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7469_zpsdbjgdqhn.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7473_zpsezihr1l7.jpg[/IMG] A new end plate made from SS and crudly stamped ESTWING. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7472_zpsbllhahmq.jpg[/IMG] I'm ready to make the handle similarly to that which I did on mine. Stay tuned.

Posted 2019-01-13 03:09:16 by Chris W

Estwing Hammer Restoration. Number 2

Sun, 13 Jan 2019 03:06:18 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Another one! We gave this hammer to Herbert (FIL, he's just had his 95th Bday) some time ago. It's dated '77 so it must be after that. It was the same as mine but Herbert being Herbert (he's REAL 'old school' with his work. For instance: his 'goto' tools tend to be a 9lb sledge and a 2ft Stillson. He doesn't value 'things' only people) it's handle didn't last long and after it dried out and rotted off, it was put away and he'd forgotten about it. I remembered seeing it somewhere and was sure it hadn't been thrown out. Found it in a box of old tools and things and rescued it. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7448_zpscdg2gf12.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7450_zps9j10gbap.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7451_zpssylo4kgt.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7452_zps7e4qhbad.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7453_zpsae47hw2u.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7454_zpsqynskh6r.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/Herberts%20Hammer/IMG_7457_zpsgrxcwtz2.jpg[/IMG] The end plate is MIA and one of the riveted prongs has been broken. But I have a plan! Different to the previous one so stay tuned!

Posted 2019-01-13 03:06:18 by Chris W

Estwing Hammer Restoration.

Wed, 21 Nov 2018 22:07:29 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

My father bought and gave me this hammer when I was just a lad. Probably in the late 60's. (There appears to be what could be a date in the handle forging which may suggest 1970, but I'm sure it's older than that) Its weight was marked incorrectly and was significantly heavier than the one he had which was supposedly the same. I got used to using it, however, when I moved on with my life he 'appropriated' it and used it as his hammer for a few years. When came time to build my own home I 'stole' it back and it has been my 'work horse' hammer for the last 35yrs. It's hard life was showing and the leather handle had loosened and I had patched and re-patched the handle many times. A couple of days ago I decided to do a major rebuild. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/.highres/IMG_20181118_171923_zpsv3heh7wo.jpg?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds[/IMG] The handle looked very sad and so I hacked it off. 2 layers of racket tape and a 'recent' silicone taping. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181118_171954_zpswvwxy7z0.jpg[/IMG] A piece of Turpentine from a tree that had fallen in the back yard that I'd cut some timber from a year or two ago. Very dry. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181118_172344_zpsacjww5to.jpg[/IMG] Marked out the slot on the 45deg alternately so the grain would cross with each piece. Drilled and cut out the slots. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181118_172037_zpsz86lrshg.jpg[/IMG] Checking the fit. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181118_173452_zpsvk7yhp8a.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181118_173503_zps8cqlq556.jpg[/IMG] A dry assembly to check. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181119_162241_zpsapuzayox.jpg[/IMG] Glued and clamped in place. Used an Epoxy glue. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181121_152446_zpsbzxiiarr.jpg[/IMG] Starting the shaping. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181121_152831_zpsmm6yjqg1.jpg[/IMG] And roughing closer to the correct shape. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181121_173626_zpswjpdtzop.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181121_175640_zps4ykqpeve.jpg[/IMG] Lots more shaping and sanding with progressingly finer strips of abrasive paper, gave me this. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181121_180217_zpslkxmqlxt.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181121_180217_zpslkxmqlxt.jpg[/IMG] First spray coat of Polyurethane. Shows the effect of the alternating grain on the diagonal. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181122_140456_zpsx4eknctv.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181122_140510_zpsdbisdk7w.jpg[/IMG] End cap of synthetic cork glued on, trimmed with a rounding over bit in router. Plus another coat of Polyurethane. And that's about it. I'm pleased with it. [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Estwing%20Hammer%20Restore/IMG_20181122_140633_zpsqcfjcowh.jpg[/IMG] This shot shows the remnants of my name stamped in it well over 40 years ago.

Posted 2018-11-21 22:07:29 by Chris W

A Postscript To The Rear Discs Thing.

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 02:55:47 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

I've copped a bit of stick from some members on the value of doing what I've done. Most have been supportive and helpful but there also has been a few nay-sayers. I'd like to reiterate the reasons for my decision to go down this path. I established right from the start improvement of braking was not my primary goal. I was disappointed with the deterioration of the drum brake componentary. I was after something that was simpler. I believe I've achieved that and given others much more information if they feel inclined to go down that path themselves for whatever reason/s they have. Some members have suggested that the rear discs would be detrimental to the front/rear braking balance. My experience so far is that there is no suggestion that the front/rear balance is compromised. Without comparative testing I can't comment definitively on any improvement. The only thing I'm prepared to say is that the braking is as good as I would expect a well maintained braking system would be. However, I am prepared to say this. Previously it was fairly easy to lock one or both rear wheels when braking heavily, that has not been my experience so far. I've yet to have a real panic stop and at this early stage in the breaking in procedure I'm not prepared to simulate that just yet. As far as cost, time and effort. Yes, it was at significant cost. Mainly for the kit itself and the cost of shipping from the US. Knowing what I now know, I could easily produce the kit myself. However, I believe I've paid for the research Scarebird have done to determine the best combination of parts to work correctly on a Mk1 car. The effort and time, for me, is irrelevant. What else am I going to spend my time on. Others can make their own judgement as to whether they want to follow based on my experience.

Posted 2018-01-22 02:55:47 by Chris W

Results Of The Test Drive.

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 02:36:13 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Well that seems (at this stage) to have done the trick! Just come back from a decent run through Gosford, onto the M1 south to Calga and came back on the old Pacific Hwy back home. Brakes worked flawlessly and with no noise. I'm saying - mission accomplished! So, now I have new hubs all round, new 15" wires and tyres all round, new discs all round and new pads all round. Oh, and new front wheel bearings and a new M.Cylinder. Now, one other issue I alluded to earlier that many have had problems with. Wheel balance! Some time ago I posted about this with my old wheels - the inability of most tyre retailers not being able to balance hub mounted wheels. At the time I solved my balance issue by removing ALL the weights put on by the tyre fitting monkeys and with cheap tyres on 50 year old wire rims - with tubes, the car ran at speed very smoothly. New wires - tubless - and new tyres - Bridgestone, with no balancing, they run as smooth as silk up to about 140klm's (I wasn't game to go any faster than that). I was confident that was going to be the outcome and it was. So to reiterate what I've said before: Wheel balance issues - can't get someone to balance them? Run them naked first and see how you go. Well, I'm calling this done. Oh, one more thing to do. I lost a little oil from the differential during the axle removal and given the differential certainly needs looking at, I want to drain and make sure it's full of new oil. I'll do that soon.

Posted 2018-01-22 02:36:13 by Chris W

Fixing The Squealing Brakes.

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 02:32:04 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Swapped out the old pads for the new ones. I went to Supercheap Auto and saw a compound that looked like the rubbery stuff I took off and I had $8.50 credit on my rewards card which was going to expire shortly, so I used it to buy the stuff cheaply. It was a bit fiddly getting the old ones off as the caliper has to come off to get them out. While I was there I noticed that the cutout on the backing plate was a little snug and the pads were jamming in there. Took the opportunity to use my grinder and make them fit in the backing plate a little better. I wondered if I should but I could see that the calipers were actually retaining the pads and holding them from slipping radially so I reckon it's ok. Used the anti squeal compound as per instructions and got everything back together and done. I'm leaving it till tomorrow before driving, giving the compound a bit of time to harden up. Apparently it doesn't go completely hard and stays a bit tacky. I'll post again tomorrow after a test drive and give the verdict. Looks promising.

Posted 2018-01-22 02:32:04 by Chris W

Squealing Brakes.

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 02:30:45 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Took the MGB into my local inspection guy this morning and he didn't even blink about the rear discs. Had a bit of a look and filled out the pink slip. Drove straight there and straight home. By the time I was home the Pink slip had been lodged with the RMS so I paid the fee and it's all good. One issue that I need to address is the brake squeal, more groan. When I lightly brake they squeal. Pressing more firmly and the squeal goes away. Clearly coming from the back. When I disassembled the Festiva calipers the pads had some red coloured, rubbery stuff sticking the pads to the caliper. I cleaned all this off and didn't re-apply anything else. (I'm actually still running the old pads as they had lots of meat left, I just cleaned the face on the linisher before putting them back in. I've got new ones but didn't see the need to use them - yet.) It appears this red stuff is some sort of anti-squeal magic and I think I should replace it or maybe wait to see how the pads go over the next few weeks? I asked these questions on the forum and the consensus was to use the new pads with some sort of anti-squeal stuff.

Posted 2018-01-22 02:30:45 by Chris W

Tidying Up The Handbrake And A Clearance Issue.

Sat, 30 Dec 2017 02:23:16 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

I finished off the handbrake this arvo and took it for a drive. Handbrake's OK. You really have to reef on it to hold the car. Might have another look at that down the track. It does, however, slow the car when driving along and that, I suppose is the important thing. Now, on to another problem. I noticed this on a previous test drive and that was a nasty clonk going around a left bend and hitting a bump at the same time. I dismissed it previously as just hitting the bump stops but today it was obvious that something else was fouling. I was able to replicate it and when I brought the car home I stopped on the downward reverse turn into the carport so the suspension on that side was heavily compressed. When I hopped out and bounced that corner I could hear metal to metal clunking. Squeezing my head under with a torch I could see where it was touching. See this picture: [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_7009_zpsjhcvvqr0.jpg[/IMG] and this one: [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_7010_zpsgurytix7.jpg[/IMG] There could be a myriad of reasons why this is occurring. Kit didn't allow for this. Some misalignment in the axle assembly. A slightly larger flange here than normal. ETC. I don't have an issue with the 'track' of the car but there has been some evidence of collision damage in the rear in the past. Interestingly the other side is clear: [IMG]https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_7011_zpszufcmia7.jpg[/IMG] By how much is difficult to determine. Anyway my plan is to cut/grind away some of the flange to allow for clearance.

Posted 2017-12-30 02:23:16 by Chris W

New Ebrake Cable - Same Issue

Sat, 23 Dec 2017 08:21:31 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

I'm starting to think there's something screwy about my car. I stuffed up the original cable by cutting too much off it. The suggestion that over the years the cable had stretched. New cable should solve that issue. Well it appears not! The cables mechanism is a little convoluted. The main cable from the lever goes directly to the left rear wheel. On it's way there it leaves the outer sheath going through a floating pivot bar. At this bar the sheath pushes back against the cable movement in so doing pulls a secondary cable which is connected to the right rear wheel. This pivoting action equalises the pull from both wheels in towards the centre. On my car the main cable appears to be far too long and even with all the adjustment on the main cable at the lever it still does not have enough pull on the two wheel levers to activate the brake. I'm going to try again to shorten the main cable a more accurate amount to enable the cable to pull the brake on. However, Christmas has intervened so everything stops until Christmas/New Year has past.

Posted 2017-12-23 08:21:31 by Chris W

Done The Fronts!

Tue, 19 Dec 2017 20:46:16 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

These probably should have been replaced back in 2007. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6943_zpscp1bzrws.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6945_zpsojdnfyij.jpg[/IMG] New pads as well. Had some difficulty getting the pistons to retract. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6950_zpspwfq8rkh.jpg[/IMG] A bit of a comparison between the old and the new. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6957_zpsq1qb4wtw.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6958_zpssxbun5nt.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6948_zpsbr0hpttd.jpg[/IMG] Tried them out and all seems well. No suggestion that the rears may lockup. All seems good. Pedal a little spongy. Will ask the question on the main forum re: Spongy pedal.

Posted 2017-12-19 20:46:16 by Chris W

Abortive Cable Mod And A Plan To Improve The Ebrake Release.

Sun, 17 Dec 2017 08:23:37 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

There's an active discussion on DIY rear Discs for MGB here: http://www.mgexp.com/journal/geezer/16358 Now an additional spring to encourage Ebrake pad release appears to present itself here on this pic. [URL=http://s114.photobucket.com/user/sweep_2006/media/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6926_zpsxgsioxb9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6926_zpsxgsioxb9.jpg[/IMG][/URL] If you look at this picture particularly the black pins supporting the pads, I strikes me that a 'push' spring on these pins between each pad would release the pads from the rotor after the parking brake lever was released. I have some spring steel wire that I should be able to coil up some suitable spring to fit here. In the next few days I'll see if I can make these and install them.

Posted 2017-12-17 08:23:37 by Chris W

Cable Mod - Didn't Go To Plan.

Fri, 15 Dec 2017 00:24:32 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

What's the adage. Measure twice cut once. Hmm, lets just say I've ordered a new handbrake cable. Should be here about new years.

Posted 2017-12-15 00:24:32 by Chris W

Rear Done - Almost!

Wed, 13 Dec 2017 04:27:26 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Well, I'm done! Put the new MC in tonight - what a bastard that is! Haven't put the firewall plug back in yet and I'll sit on it overnight before I fill it up with new brake fluid and bleed the brakes. But it's all in and done. I've ordered new pads for the Festiva calipers but as I'm still waiting for them I've put the old ones in temporarily. They have lots of meat on them but it shouldn't be a big deal to swap them out when the new ones arrive. Pics tomorrow. But I should be able to finish the back off tomorrow and start on the front. I've got new hubs, bearings, rotors and wheels for the front as well. Next day: Filled the MC and started to fill the lines and calipers. I was by myself today so I wasn't able to get the lines completely clear of air. But close enough to take it for a short drive and although the pedal was a bit spongy everything seemed ok. The eBrake needs some work. A new cable may help but to make sure I think I'll shorten the cable myself. That way I should be able to get it just right. Some would question me modifying the cable but I'm confident that I can get it done accurately and more importantly - safely. The 15" wheels look great and I'm happy with my decision to go with the grey painted wheels rather than chromed. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6938_zps0fz4vwtj.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6937_zps2qwkud6r.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6941_zpssmerjrdj.jpg[/IMG] Compared to the 14" here: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6942_zpsk8k87ktv.jpg[/IMG] These front hubs and wheels are next - maybe after the eBrake.

Posted 2017-12-13 04:27:26 by Chris W

The Triumph Brake Pads For The Ebrake.

Mon, 11 Dec 2017 02:53:33 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

These turned up this morning in the post. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6914_zpsihi8y3jh.jpg[/IMG] So these can go on. According to the instructions that came with the kit these pads are held in place using the large split pins shown here. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6915_zpszdog3waz.jpg[/IMG] I wasn't really happy with this arrangement so I made some pins and used them instead. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6917_zpsyq6i3oij.jpg[/IMG] The pads were a bit too snug a fit into the calipers as well so I sanded a whisker off them before putting them on. All in all, they went on fairly well and here is a picture of them in one of the calipers. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6926_zpsxgsioxb9.jpg[/IMG] I'm pretty pleased with how they look as well. I think they should work really well.

Posted 2017-12-11 02:53:33 by Chris W

New MC And Dealing With The Rust Under The Master Cylinder.

Mon, 11 Dec 2017 02:37:25 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

In a previous entry I mentioned that I ordered a new master cylinder for the brakes. When I rebuilt the brakes a few years ago I cleaned up the old square metal MC and painted it with POR15 - silver. Came up ok and looked ok at the time. However, Id noticed lately that the finish had deteriorated and it had started to rust around the cap. I'd decided to replace it with a new one some time ago but had not gotten around to it. Now seemed a good time to do that. Anyway it turned up quite quickly only a couple of days after I'd ordered it. So as I was still waiting on other bits to continue the brakes I started to work on replacing the old square MC. It's an absolute bugger to get to the bolts and the connections around the pedal box but I took off the first bit of the brake line as well and with a little work I was able to get the old one out. The shelf under the MC was in bad shape and it had started to rust as well. I got in there with a large screwdriver and scraped off as much of the rusty stuff of as I could, then I remembered how I'd cleaned out the rusty passages on the boat when I replaced the bellows a few years ago. I'd made up a bunch of spring steel rods about 6" long and brazed them together a bit like a bunch of flowers. When that was held in a drill it worked really well scabbing out rust and paint and I used it again here to good effect. I used some rust dissolver to neutralise any remaining rust and after it was dry gave it a good flood of Penatrol. Left it for a few days to dry and this morning gave it a good brush with some black epoxy paint. Here's a Picture of the new MC. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6929_zpsuw5i1jeo.jpg[/IMG] And here's two pics of the area under the MC after painting this morning. It looks daggier than it actually is. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6927_zpsel9j7vl7.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6928_zpsniuugc5w.jpg[/IMG] I cleaned up the brake line to the first junction as well and gave it a coat of epoxy Black. Here's a picture of that after it had dried as well. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6935_zpsyitplud0.jpg[/IMG] That was last Friday. (Except the painting of the shelf under the pedal box - that was this morning.)

Posted 2017-12-11 02:37:25 by Chris W

I Got There In The End. But...

Thu, 07 Dec 2017 04:51:16 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Not without some angst. The plan was to make some little saddles and spot them to a hose clamp then clamp these to the axle. Well went OK,ish. Not without some drama. Photos of the hose clamps are not good and the pics of the line in place aren't much better. They do, however, tell the story. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170718_zps4kih08jf.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170728_zpsyoanxsmj.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170741_zps3flngp6t.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170746_zpsjvspn6gi.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170755_zpsuir1rwlk.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170804_zpsypsuwvzp.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_20171207_170811_zpsvfiqnumc.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6895_zpsyznawhai.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6897_zpsehgccofd.jpg[/IMG] The hose clamps should have been selected more carefully as to the length of the clamp in relation to where it is. I went with clamps I had and there were some issues with the length of the clamps and I had to cut some off the tail of the clamps which left some unsightly jagged ends. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6899_zpsf6g7ptgf.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6900_zpsfw7ukyj6.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6901_zpsxzfegurv.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6903_zpsdhczr94a.jpg[/IMG] The following 4 photos show the line in relation to the shock arm. The reality is that the clamps hold the line in a loop which is further away from the shock arm than it appears. Actually I'm quite pleased with how the line does stand away from all the moving components. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6905_zps2hvbrwag.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6907_zpsmyonn81c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6908_zpswqnmhahm.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6909_zpsrpxqtwkp.jpg[/IMG] Still waiting for the Festiva Brake Pads and the Triumph E Brake pads. I'll have to wait to see how the Ebrake goes but I think I'm going to need to shorten the ebrake cable a bit.

Posted 2017-12-07 04:51:16 by Chris W

Brake Lines.

Wed, 06 Dec 2017 03:17:13 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Pirex rang me yesterday morning saying the lines are ready for me to pick-up. Which I did that afternoon. This morning I started on the fitting of those. These are becoming a bit more complex than first thought. Not impossible but... The original lines go to the positions of the slave cylinders, which is below the axle. nothing moving about down there. However the connections for the calipers is up the top. Now up here we have the bumpstops and the shock arms and the body all of which are moving about in relation to the axle. through this maze of movement I have to thread the brake lines making sure they don't foul anything as the suspension moves up and down. Not a big deal but more complicated than first thought. Photos tomorrow. When I've sorted the positioning. Seal kit turned up this morning. So I was able to attach the calipers to their final resting place. Still waiting for the new pads and the Triumph ebrake pads. Oh and I ordered a new MC. Hoping all of these bits will be here in the next week. Went and got the final crimping done this morning: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6894_zps0k8anpk4.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6893_zpsnz4kfdax.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6891_zps1xr5gfxf.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2017-12-06 03:17:13 by Chris W

Visit To Pirtex

Mon, 04 Dec 2017 06:52:01 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Went to Pirtex today and left the brake lines with them. What they are going to do is make up two lines. But they will give them to me to check the lengths and mark them on the car to make sure they are the right length. I'll mark where they need to be cut and then they will make the junctions so they will be the correct length. I've found a set of pads for the Festiva calipers and a seal kit for the calipers as well. I should expect those in a few days time. The triumph spitfire pads for the ebrake should also be here in the next few days also. I wouldn't mind replacing the MC as well. I should do that as well.

Posted 2017-12-04 06:52:01 by Chris W

And Here We Are!

Sat, 02 Dec 2017 01:41:27 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Here it is. On the car. The other one needs some new seals and possibly new pads but they sure look nice. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6881_zpsduv7yxtt.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6868_zps8ckqgewx.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6867_zpsxpcl9dtj.jpg[/IMG] Monday I'll take a trip to Pirtex in Gosford and see if they can make up my lines. So far it's all good!

Posted 2017-12-02 01:41:27 by Chris W

Making The Festiva Calipers Nice And Yellow.

Fri, 01 Dec 2017 21:35:06 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Pulled the calipers down and cleaned them up and painted the halves. The caliper paint takes ages to dry so I 'cooked' them in the oven. Sharon's not home so at this stage I'm OK. The seals are ok in one caliper but torn in the other. The pads I was going to use again but 2 of them have chunks out of them. They would still be ok but I should be able to get new ones without too much trouble. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6852_zpsujdclzgz.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6851_zpsptxpohyv.jpg[/IMG] I'll assemble one caliper and put it on and see how it goes. Some pics of the bits and one assembled. You can see why the other is not assembled. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6865_zpsvjpjjuef.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6864_zpsnym0l0zc.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6863_zpsaqtczzph.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6861_zpsjbndmqoc.jpg[/IMG] These two boots appear to be in good condition except that one is clearly bigger than the other. Is it the wrong part? Has it swollen to that size? It certainly does not work. It won't seal around the floating shafts. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6858_zpserftmu9h.jpg[/IMG] Haven't quite worked out this yet. The gold coloured one is the one off the caliper. The other one came in the kit. It's too long to go where the original one went and the hole is much smaller. Does the size of the hole make a difference in the braking force - wouldn't think so. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6857_zps2jbrylmv.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2017-12-01 21:35:06 by Chris W

The Links On This Page Don't Work But I'm Just Leaving It.

Thu, 30 Nov 2017 02:16:45 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

This is a work in progress. The following list is pretty random and not in much of a logical order but it will get you to the relevant entry that is mentioned prior to each link. (It should also be noted that Skye has created a 'table of contents' which is accessible from the Green 'ACTIONS' button above right.) Removing Front Brake Calipers http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/1110 Catch Up With All Sorts Of Stuff. Remake of the Oil Pressure gauge line. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/2016 100 Entries! Still More Money! Remake of the 1/4 window pivot. - Locating block for jack. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/2033 Last Minute Dash Modification. for vacuum gauge http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/1446 Speedo Miles To Kilometres Conversion Pt 1 http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/1569 KPH Speedo Conversion Pt 2 http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/1579 Using BBQ to Install F/wheel Ring Gear. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/1612 Buckled, Distorted Bonnet And New Seats. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/2372 Rear cockpit rail http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/2557 Rocker assembly error. Catch Up And Engine Disaster. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/2703 Parking Brake And The Wrong Springs http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/2877 LED In Parking Lights http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/4112 Fix For Failing Brake Light Switch http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/4537 Sticking Throttle After Run Yesterday. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/6350 Aux bonnet release using Little Bit Of The New Throttle Cable Left Over. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/6446 New Steering Ball Joints and a wheel alignment. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7223 Quest To Find Source Of Clutch Shudder. and http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7309 Couple Of Days Later And A Plan Has Emerged. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7330 Postscript To The Clutch Shudder. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7331 Made A Start On The OD. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7462 Modifying The Gear Lever. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7503 Novel way to align the motor/gearbox http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0061.jpg OD wiring and testing solenoid At Last! Ready To Put The 'lump' Back. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7526 The Driveshaft Adapter. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7560 and drawing of Tailsshaftspacer.jpg http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/Tailsshaftspacer.jpg Drive shaft spacer Pt 2 Great When A Plan Comes Together! http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7564 Result With Tacho - Not So With Speedo. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7626 New fuel filter Issue With The Motor Running Like Crap! and http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7686 actual problem Problem Found And Fixed Within The Distributor. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7703 Seat Belt Hanger Uppers http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/7935 First Bingle - Rear Ended! and http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8273 The Fix! http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8283 Seat Support Captive Nut Area Failing. and http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8360 the bloody fix It May Not Be Pretty But It Worked Great - Until The Blood Started Flowing. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8369 Pt 1 Back At It Slowly. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8420 Pt 2 Thank Goodness For Grinders 'cause… http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8421 Failed handbrake fix Revisit The Hand Brake Adjustment. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8424 Start of the Head gasket failure saga. Serious Sounding Motor Clunk Under Load - I Fear Something Bad Has Happened. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/8638 Back The The Main Event, The MGB Motor 'failure' and the next few entries. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/9200 Replacement of steering U-Joint. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/10618 A Job On My Other Vehicle - The Patrol. http://www.mgexp.com/journal/sweep/9003

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Posted 2017-11-30 02:16:45 by Chris W

Next Bit.

Wed, 29 Nov 2017 23:24:10 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Both are done now. I've ordered the E,Brake pads. '67 triumph spitfire. I did it online. I'll ring tomorrow to check the order goes through. Had a bit of a closer look at the Fiesta Calipers this afternoon and they don't look too bad I may be able to get away with cleaning them up and putting them straight on. My plan for the hydraulic lines is to take the hose that I cut from the Fiesta and the line from the drum brakes and say "I want this on one end and that on the other end. 2 lines this long. I reckon they will be able to make what I want. Next day edit. Rang Heritage and apparently my order did not take. Waiting for a return Email confirming the pads are correct. Email has come, out of stock! Checked on eBay. Can get them from 'Pomspares' $44. Have bought from them before successfully so ordered them. We will see. Later this afternoon, I spent some time on the calipers. Cleaning and disassembling and some painting. Done 3 out of the 4 halves. Pics tomorrow.

Posted 2017-11-29 23:24:10 by Chris W

Hubs Done And One's On.

Tue, 28 Nov 2017 05:12:57 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

The other one is ready to go. I'm just having a break from cleaning up my work space. As mentioned at the bottom of the previous entry. The emergency brake caliper didn't fit into the cut-out for it so some judicious work with my battery angle grinder sorted that issue. Here are some pictures of the calipers installed. No pads yet I'm about to contact Heritage in Sydney and get them to send me some up. The kit uses Triumph Spitfire front pads '67 to '80. Shouldn't be an issue. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6846_zpswbxshny5.jpg[/IMG] This ones just sitting there to make sure it fits. It'll have to come off to fit the hub and rotor. The octagonal nut which retains the hub bearing needs to be torqued to 160-180ftlbs. In reality a good rattle with my battery impact driver gives me close to this - I checked it with the torque wrench and it was almost spot on. Here's a pic of the other side with the hub, Rotor and Emergency brake caliper installed. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6845_zps5vpznorb.jpg[/IMG] Stay tuned the Fiesta calipers are next. Hmm.

Posted 2017-11-28 05:12:57 by Chris W

New Hubs On.

Fri, 24 Nov 2017 18:50:41 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

The pressing of the new hubs is done. Went fairly well with one issue. When I decided to use the lengths of 1/2"x 2", I checked the length of them against the lengths of the axles and reckoned I had plenty of length. What I hadn't considered was how much space the bottle jack took up and when it came time to set it all up in the frame the side rails were too short by about 4". So then there was some time used making extenders. My supply of steel and bits and pieces is getting a bit low and the only thing I could find to use was some 1"x 1/4" flat bar. By the time I'd drilled a 5/8" hole for the bolts it was too weak and both of them broke out under the stress. I searched about and found a few pieces of 1" x 3/8" having to weld 2 pieces together to get the second piece. But these worked fine and I was able to do the second side as well. tonight. The second side went a bit easier than the first one. Here's the right side done ready to go back on the car. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6843_zps3ncbsuqf.jpg[/IMG] The plug in the end I just welded the hole I'd drilled to get them out up and reused them. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6844_zps2aidpx8v.jpg[/IMG] I should have both sides back on the car tomorrow. One thing with the kit I should mention is covered by the following photo: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/Back%20plate%20tweaking_zpsp4wcq2bx.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2017-11-24 18:50:41 by Chris W

Changing The Hubs.

Sat, 25 Mar 2017 04:03:26 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I should just go and buy a press, but thats too easy. Ive got a couple of bits of 65mmx 12 about 1.2 metres long. These welded with 2 cross pieces 200mm apart and an old hydraulic jack. I should be able to come up with something that will press out the axles from the hubs. Pics tomorrow. Well, if at first you don't succeed, weld more shit on and try again: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/0fcdd36d-282d-47b3-bad4-6cdb371ce41e_zps89jd2csl.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/78a6fb1a-d841-48c5-9ac3-b60f692322bd_zpsrcx4czc9.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/ecaf0c11-ab26-43f5-a02f-52a730043fa1_zps0hqxs4jr.jpg[/IMG] Success: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6841_zpszzfqmihy.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6842_zps1zvlyy3h.jpg[/IMG] One down. Now to get the new hub on. Stay tuned!

Posted 2017-03-25 04:03:26 by Chris W

Time To Start All These Jobs I've Been Putting Off.

Sat, 25 Mar 2017 03:59:36 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

OK, here's the plan. Do the back first. New wheels, Hubs and the Scarebird Disc kit. Wheels with Bridgstone 185/60/15" [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6816_zpsqd9jos6h.jpg[/IMG] Get the back in the air with 2 sets of stands holding it up. One for the body and one taking the weight of the axle assembly. Load off the straps. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6819_zpsxij4nqfu.jpg[/IMG] This is what's going: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6818_zpsl6qwxfdd.jpg[/IMG] The other side [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6814_zps1ndqfeoz.jpg[/IMG] While I'm here I think I'll rehab the diff as well. How hard can it be. Should have mentioned. I've managed to get a set of Fiesta callipers and I'm pretty sure I got the correct Sonata rotor as well. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_5113_zpsqatuhzmv.jpg[/IMG] The rotors are new. The callipers need a good clean up and a seal and boot kit. But I'll leave that 'till later. Car's out of rego. So I've got 3 months to finish this get an inspection and pay rego otherwise I'll have to surrender plates. Drums stripped off [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6820_zpsacbz7f7p.jpg[/IMG] Backing plate on with some blue Loctite on the threads. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6821_zpsawgbvkob.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6823_zpsncy8qvn9.jpg[/IMG] The orientation of these was not totally clear from the pics but I established that the Fiesta Calipers go forward and the hose bracket goes to the rear and down. if anyone thinks otherwise, I'm happy to hear from you. New Hub and Sonata Rotor. (just sitting there at this stage i.e. no axle) [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6830_zpsagtkovgy.jpg[/IMG] And new 15" Wheel. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Disc%20Brakes%20-%20Scarebird%20Kit/IMG_6831_zpsiapyfkeu.jpg[/IMG] So I believe we have proof of concept. :)

Posted 2017-03-25 03:59:36 by Chris W

Scarebird Rear Disc Kit 2

Sat, 25 Mar 2017 03:03:12 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I've been away for 3 weeks and the kit arrived while I was away. I have to source some parts locally and have hit a minor snag. Two main parts Hyundai Sonata Rear discs? No problem, easy replacement part about $80 Aus. Festiva Front Calipers? Not so much. Too early, not available (except for OEM) new. So 2nd hand. Problem is in Aus wreckers tend not to keep cars (or parts for that matter) for run-o-the-mill older cars. However, the suggestion is that that particular Caliper was/is used in a whole lot of other vehicles. From Kia rios to Mazda 121s. Part numbers I got with the kit don't translate into 'Aussie'. So I'm going to have to rely on 'over the counter' visual comparisons. The response from the forum community has been generally good. A few predictable 'Nah sayers' but even those I think still have an interest in how the conversion will go and I've had lots of help. I sent Scarebird an email mentioning the above issues and asking a few questions but received a bland response with very limited i.e. none help. Was surprised at that but... Anyway, discussions with a local wrecker and some Goggle searching has resulted in, what I believe is enough to proceed. This Wikipeadia site gives me the most info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Festiva And looking at the links to other similar cars. One aspect that I did look at was on the Bendix Brakes site looking at replacement brake pads. These are definitely the correct ones DB442: https://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue?manufacturer=&model=&variant=&oepart=&part=DB442 These ones need further investigation DB1158: https://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue?manufacturer=&model=&variant=&oepart=&part=DB1158 Oh, most importantly I did find a pic on Scarebirds Photobucket site which wasn't include in the instructions. [img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/Scarebird/MGB/DSCF1043_zpsa976bd56.jpg[/img] Interestingly, I had seen this pic searching the Scarebird photo gallery but it wasn't until I came across the Photobucket MGB album that it became clear that it was actually from an MGB. It's the later axle but the callipers are the same. So here's what I think so far. The calliper was used on a number of cars - including Mazda 121, Ford Festiva and some early Kia. I'm sure there are others. A slightly different calliper was used on many more vehicles. Further investigation is needed to establish if the other calliper has the same mounting and piston size. The pads are extremely similar. I need to go and talk to the wrecker guy again and compare the calliper which he showed me to the one in the pics and whether it will fit on the adapter plate and clear the rotor. Stay tuned.

Posted 2017-03-25 03:03:12 by Chris W

Scare Bird Rear Disc 1

Fri, 12 Sep 2014 08:00:24 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

This is the guts of a forum post I made a few weeks ago. It's time to start writing it up here: When I recovered my car a few years ago (I say 'recovered' cause it's hardly a restoration) I re vamped the brakes. Cleaned the lines, replaced the rear brake cylinders, replaced all the hoses, replaced all seals in MC ... etc. It was basically new from one end to the other. After sitting for a while recently I was having an issue with the rear brakes binding. It would take a few ks for them to slacken up and function normally. Fronts were fine. Still passed rego and he has always been picky on brakes and the handbrake. Anyway decided to go back in there and was horrified how much everything had deteriorated. The cylinders weren't leaking - much - but the little that had got pst the plungers had played merry hell with the steel on the cylinders and the boots were full of this rusty sludge that took some cleaning. The back plates had lost enough paint to start to rust and the handbrake rubbers were MIA completely. After struggling with the spring arrangement and the careful greasing of the moving parts, making sure I didn't get any on the linings I buttoned it up and bled the brakes and thought the sooner I get rid of these the better. Which brings me to this: [img]https://scarebird.com/image/cache/data/MGB%20components-228x228.JPG[/img] [img]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a107/Scarebird/MGB/DSCF0985_zps0d8b37d5.jpg?t=1406313835[/img] I know rear discs for the MGB have been discussed before and the consensus has been that they aren't needed to improve braking. I agree! However, that's with a correctly functioning drum brake assembly. I'm of the opinion that the rear drums are just too high maintenance and I'm going with these. They should turn up here in a few days and it will take me a while to source the other bits I need, but I'm pretty confident they should give me a functioning rear brake and handbrake better than what I have now. Give me some time to work out all the issues - especially rego issues and I'l let you know how I go. There very well could be a Rear Disc Brake assembly on Aus Ebay in the near future.

Posted 2014-09-12 08:00:24 by Chris W

Problems With Your Wheel Balancing? My Solution!

Fri, 12 Sep 2014 07:51:55 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

There has been a few threads of late about the problems of incompetent tyre fitters. About 2 years ago I (foolishly) replaced my 14" tyres with a cheap, generic brand of tyre. ( I've since got new hubs and 15" wheels but are yet to install them - another story.) Anyway the tyre mob put them on and 'balanced' them. I got the "well you can't expect to be able to balance 40year old wires with tubes successfully" story and they proceeded to cover the front and back of the wheel with weights in an attempt to balance them. "That's the best we can do with these crappy old wheels" So in my ignorance I accepted that and drove off thinking 'gee, I'd better get these wheels replaced'. Fast forward 2 years of putting up with not being able to drive over 80kph without it shaking itself to bits and listening to the commentary here about balancing issues AND after reading the flyer that came with my new wheels, I started to doubt the competency of the tyre fitters. Last weekend I took the B on an epic trip to the south coast and before I left I took a large weight off the wheel that had the most weights on it. On the trip down I thought I could feel the ride was a little better. When I got to my inlaws place I went out to the car and stood there looking at it contemplating and thought 'Bugger it! Just do it! it can't be worse than it is.' I jacked up each side and took each wheel off in turn and took a total of 650grams - 11 in all of the wheels plus the 70g I took of the day before, over 700grams. Result? It's like it's a different car! I took it for a test drive and took it up to 140kph and it was as smooth as silk (well, canvas then) but the thing is I can't believe these guys have been doing this to spline wheels for decades and the've been doing it so wrong. So if you've got issues with wheel balance on spline hubs try taking all your weights off and see how you go. I can't believe the result. 40year old rims with tubes and cheap tyres with NO weights and it's almost perfect.

Posted 2014-09-12 07:51:55 by Chris W

Frustrated By The Poor Quality Of Rear Spring Rubber Mount Pads?

Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:28:08 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Make your own! Had this piece of rubber for yonks. Can't remember where it came from but probably from the coal mine my inlaw worked at. Was used as a swing seat when my boy was about 3 - he's 27 now, and it's been outside in the weather all this time and still good. A bit harder than the crappy rubber I put on 6 years ago so I'll let you know how they go. Rubber's a bit tricky to machine with woodworking tools so if you're tempted to try be careful. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Axle/2014-09-11133620_zps90b97d36.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Axle/2014-09-11133629_zpsdb0d7e4c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Axle/2014-09-11133639_zps26f697a5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20Axle/2014-09-11133649_zps899dbab3.jpg[/IMG] Later this evening I took it for a drive and my buttometer suggested that it felt a bit tighter. Time will tell how they wear but it seems good for now. 3 years later and they look good.

Posted 2014-06-16 09:28:08 by Chris W

Replacing Steering U-Joint

Thu, 23 Jan 2014 00:31:17 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

I got this job done, without too much drama. I asked the question about the best way to do this on the forum but I followed the manual because I was fairly confident that I wouldn't have disassembly problems because this had been completely apart in 2007. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/ScreenShot2014-06-15at12852PM_zps17de9ae9.jpg[/IMG] I was correct and had no problems pulling the bolts, the splines and the assembly came apart easily. One issue, however. I loosened these two bolts: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Front%20Suspension%20and%20Steering/2014-06-16175421_zps2c39bd8c.jpg[/IMG] and: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Front%20Suspension%20and%20Steering/2014-06-16175315_zps4c2d488d.jpg[/IMG] thinking that I could wiggle the whole unit away from the U-joint but when I gave the wheel a wiggle and a pull the inner shaft only, moved and came out of the U-joint. Damn! That exposed the horn contact and it was obvious it wasn't going to slip back in easily. The U-joint assembly came off the lower steering shaft easily and the disassembly and reassembly of the spider went like clockwork. I did however spend a bit of time lightly chamfering and polishing the yoke holes prior to reassembly. With a little oil in these holes I was able to push the caps on just using finger pressure. Circlips when on easy as well. Little bit of fiddling lining up the two splines. The lower one had to go on first but it had to be correctly aligned with the top one at the same time and then a little stretching to hold the U-joint in one hand and wiggle and push the top shaft and the steering wheel in with the other hand making sure at the same time the horn contact was lifted clear of the brass ring so as not to damage it. This, as it turned out was ok though, I just had to take the steering cowl off as well. 4 screws. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Front%20Suspension%20and%20Steering/2014-06-16173035_zps46356dac.jpg[/IMG] The worst part was the two screws that I'd take of the steering shaft. Not only was that not necessary, they were a bugger to put back in being right up the end of the foot well. But it all went to plan, (sort of) and it's done. Yet to drive it. Probably tomorrow.

Posted 2014-01-23 00:31:17 by Chris W

Bit Of A Catch Up Here.

Thu, 10 Oct 2013 18:01:31 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I've been a bit slack here lately so a catchup is required.
In a nutshell, things are kickin' along nicely and I've tried to use the MG as much as possible. It's actually the most economical car to drive out of the three I have.
I revisited the valve train a fortnight ago and found one valve to be noisy and nipped it up to spec and made some small adjustments to a couple of others and it is running sweetly now.
We took it away up to Port Stephens just after I sorted the valve clearances for a week and it went perfectly. Weather was brilliant and I did about 600kms (close to 400mls) without any issues.
I've got some goodies to put on the car but I'm not in any rush to do that.
Those are: New 15" wires, painted, New hubs, new discs, new front bearings, new ignition switch.
I've got a bit of a grumble in the drive train and I'm thinking the diff. All reports are that it's a relatively easy fix and I want to do that when I do the rear hubs and wires.
Right now, however, I'm simply enjoying the car.

Posted 2013-10-10 18:01:31 by Chris W

Bit Of A Post Script.

Mon, 29 Apr 2013 19:55:07 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I've put some miles on the car since the fix and all is going well -ish.

I checked the head torque twice and I've re-checked the valve clearances. They are moving around and the valve train is still quite noisy. I'm not particularly concerned about the noise - better that way than too tight.

I spent some time on the tune and found that it was horribly advanced. I dialled it back to about 15deg at idle and I found that idle speed dropped dramatically. It's now more in a suitable range just below 1000k.

It seems to run well and the points gap and the dwell checked out spot on. The points resistance is showing that it could be better and there is an issue with the low voltage wiring in the distributer. I'll replace the points and see if I can get that a bit better.

I went in and replaced the broken adjuster on #8 valve with a good old one and did a rough check on the valve clearances again. After that Sharon and I took the car for a long ride down to Newport on the northern beaches of Sydney. Great day and apart from a bit of a rattle in the valve train all went well.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/Sunday%20trip%20to%20Newport/P1050107_zpsc64f14ef.jpg[/IMG]

I need to revisit the valve clearances and check the head torque again but at this stage all is well.

Posted 2013-04-29 19:55:07 by Chris W

The Fix! And Some Other Tales.

Sat, 06 Apr 2013 07:51:53 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Well, the bottom line is it's all good!
I did some testing on the head before going to the trouble of cleaning and positioned it level and filled the combustion chambers with WD 40.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/2013-04-03114222_zps22123c86.jpg[/IMG]

After about an hour, which I spent doing the final cleanup of the block, there was virtually no evidence of the fluid leaking through so I concluded that the valves were still sealing and I didn't need to go further into the valve train.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/2013-04-03130851_zps4926ddb1.jpg[/IMG]

So, after salvaging the WD 40 I used my scraper and got stuck into the head surface. Lots of elbow grease later it was clean enough and matched the block. I put my straight edge over it end to end, side to side and diagonally and it's nice and flat. Not that I had any doubt that it wouldn't be. My straight edge is too long to get at the block surface so a visual inspection with a 300mm steel rule had to suffice here.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/2013-04-03134312_zps32379a4c.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/2013-04-03122933_zps6a0272c5.jpg[/IMG]

I chased out the stud threads in the block with a UNC tap ready for the studs.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/2013-04-03125217_zpse2611b69.jpg[/IMG]

I was going to use a thread sealer on these but after a discussion on the forum I just went with a drop or two of oil and spun them in by hand - just so they bottomed but only just.
I had to leave it 'till the next day to continue, it was getting late and the mossies were starting to attack.
Next day I filled in the guys on the forum with what I'd done and asked the question re: sealing the gasket or dry. This tends to be one of those things that generates discussion but the consensus was 'dry'.
The gasket was unbranded but a question to Hap (one of the resident mechanics) suggested that it was indeed a 'Payen' gasket which has a 'sticky' feel to it and an obvious coating of something over the whole lot including the metal bits.
So I was comfortable putting it on 'dry'.
I had a lunch appointment with Chook that day which, coupled together with a job I did at home and checking the 'net' for responses to my questions, meant that it didn't happen until the next day.

Unfortunately, I forgot to take photos of the assembly process but it's pretty straight forward and most of the time was taken up struggling with the 'new' valve adjusting screws.
Should've been a simple take out and replace with new. No! Firstly the new ones didn't have the oil feed holes.
The new one's on the left.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/2013-04-05113853_zps0b1d66b8.jpg[/IMG]

AND look at the machining on the ball. Photo's a bit fuzzy but it was atrocious, really rough. Together with that the thread was really rough and not accurate.
I chased the rockers with a P&N plug tap but some of them (most) galled somewhat when I tried to get the new screws in. The thread end was hardened as well so running a die over them had little effect. In fact one of them refused to go in at all so I retrieved the best of the old ones and used it.
The slot end was so hard that during the adjusting of the clearances one of the ends with the slot broke off. Luckily it was number 8 so when it comes time to adjust them again I'll be able to get it off with out disturbing the head. Still it's not very satisfactory. I'll send an email off to Moss UK to complain. I'm not interested so much about a refund it's more I want to make sure they know that they are selling crap.

Well apart from that every thing else went well and I spent most of yesterday afternoon on the car and it's running again without too much drama. It's still early days but I took it for a short run yesterday evening and it was fine.

I need to check the torque settings again and I want to give it an oil change and then see if I can improve the tune so that it doesn't happen again.

Posted 2013-04-06 07:51:53 by Chris W

Delivery From Moss.

Mon, 01 Apr 2013 21:21:13 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Did not expect this so soon! The order from Moss UK arrived this morning and I was checking it out and realised that I'd missed ordering the head nuts and washers. DUH!

Could make a supplementary order but I think I just get them locally.

Gasket looks good - much better than the one I put on before. Got a nice 'sticky' feel to it and the junctions between 1&2 and 3&4 look much better. They have a piece of brass between the thin area which should help in dissipating heat from that area.

Also got new rocker adjusting screws and nuts.

The other thing that I'm pleased about is that I've now got some new studs for the rockers.
If you've been following this journal you would remember that I had some issues with the originals and being unable to get new ones locally I'd made some from some 5/16" bolts and had not been happy with them. The new studs should solve those issues.

Posted 2013-04-01 21:21:13 by Chris W

Back The The Main Event, The MGB Motor 'failure'

Mon, 01 Apr 2013 21:08:03 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I'll jump straight in:
Motor full rebuild 10k miles ago. I put it together myself .

Suddenly developed a motor rattle and I had it towed home. Checked compression, 1 & 2 virtually no compression. Further investigation established almost certainly a leak from 1 to 2. Oil clear. Water clear.

This was confirmed today after taking head off.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/Higher%20res%20pics/P1050045_zps79517978.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/Higher%20res%20pics/P1050048_zps040e1885.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/Higher%20res%20pics/P1050049_zpsf66e4d22.jpg[/IMG]

Everything else to do with the head looks ok. I'm a little worried about a bright spot on #1 inlet valve next to where the gasket failed.

And I can't see how this gasket failure can be anyway related to the sudden development of the motor rattle. I'm still thinking I'm going to have to go in deeper.

Bit more information, if it's relevant. I believe this break has been there for a little while. I'd noticed a drop in power over the last few weeks before the rattle. I put that down to it needing a tuneup.

This situation is not fresh the car's been sitting for about 2 months - under cover - with the rocker cover off and the plugs out. The bores feel good and I haven't taken the old gasket off the block yet.

I've also had a fluctuating vacuum gauge for some time and just lately noticed a fluctuating oil pressure as well.

I posted on the forum a few months - up to a year? - ago about some variation in compression figures but the consensus of opinion at that time was to forget about it.

One thing, if you look at one of the close ups of the blow through you can still see the machining ribs through the carbon going across the blow through area. I think it's safe to say that the head's ok at that point and there is no groove.
I'll have a closer look at the block after I take off the gasket and clean it up.
I still can't reconcile that the rattle is not something else so unless someone gives me good reason not to, I'm lifting the whole lot back out, putting it on an engine stand, flipping it, taking the pan off and checking everything down there to make sure that the rattle is not bearings, cam, or oil pump.
All of these were new or refurbished 10k ago.

Update! I have the cleanest mind around - that's because I change it all the time. I change it more often than I change my underpants!

New theory! Based on what all of the guys on the forum have said and closer examination of the head gasket after I chiselled it off.
(BTW this is what I made so that I could lay into the block without worry)

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/P1050068_zps746133e1.jpg[/IMG]

Anyway, I digress. After taking the h.gasket off I noticed a few things. (some of which the guys had already alluded to)

Contrary to what I'd surmised before, it does appear that the final failure of the gasket between 1 & 2 did occur at the same time as the rattle happening. There is evidence to suggest that there was/is leakage across the border 'tween 3 & 4 and even 2 & 3. You can see the section between 3 & 4 was close to failing also.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/After%2010k%20miles%20and%20I%20am%20back%20in%20-%20DAMN/Higher%20res%20pics/P1050063_zps861506ad.jpg[/IMG]

I also went back to my notes about the regular comp. tests that I had done and after tests at 600, 6000, 10000 and 10550 miles the results were all 'fine' in fact 1 & 2 had 150 and 160 at 10550miles. The mileage is now just under 12000 so I think it's safe to say that the piece blew out recently and most probably at the time of the 'rattle'.

I'm thinking that the 'rattle' was the sound of the compression blowing across between the two cylinders. I think the gasket was leaking long before that but the 'blow-out' is what I heard.

My mind is now thinking, clean everything up, new H.gasket, torque and run it/drive it. If no rattle all good - if the rattle still there, well then I go in.

I've ordered a h.gasket set, new studs and a few other bits and pieces from UK Moss and I'll put it back together and go from there.

Posted 2013-04-01 21:08:03 by Chris W

A Job On My Other Vehicle - The Patrol.

Thu, 21 Feb 2013 21:46:49 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

As promised, this is the description ,with photographs of how I replaced my rusty slider windows with fixed glass windows. I bought the windows off eBay and they arrived in about a week all wrapped up in bubble wrap and cardboard. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143138_zpsad2cee79.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143202_zpsac1f79da.jpg[/IMG] Very happy with how they were packaged for delivery. Here is a cross section of the seal and the retaining strip. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143311_zps457c1dc7.jpg[/IMG] I had already installed the first window but didn't take any photographs, these photographs are of the second window installation. This photograph is of the window before removal you can see what I'm dealing with here. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143058_zps4a48356f.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143111_zps1a5189d8.jpg[/IMG] The new windows came with a film over both sides which I removed around the edge but left the centre intact. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143825_zps4a45e124.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143952_zpsace70323.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144542_zps6c64afb2.jpg[/IMG] The removal of the old windows was much easier than I had anticipated. I started by opening the slider as far as it would go then starting from the open window at the bottom I gave the frame a bit of a pull and it came away from the car. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144621_zpsb0c96fa1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144637_zps9087cfe0.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144715_zpsb6816a7d.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144735_zps1bfba200.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144753_zps8aa553ee.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144759_zpsbbdb4e86.jpg[/IMG] Working around the frame I was able to remove the whole frame with very little difficulty and I put this aside. I chose to put the rubber seal on the car first and then put the window into the seal. I'm not suggesting that this was the correct or the best way to do it was simply the way that I did it. These photos show the tools that I used to do this task you can see that two of the tools I've made myself. A little nylon knife I made up from a scrap piece of nylon and the wire tool is simply a piece of spring wire bent into an appropriate shape. I also had a spray bottle of dishwashing liquid mixed with water. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143530_zps5cc3d31b.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143607_zps9bfcf095.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20143633_zps20d50f21.jpg[/IMG] I was quite surprised at the condition of the windows surrounds they were quite clean and clear of any rust. I had expected some rust on the bodywork of the car but that wasn't the case. I simply had to clean off all the grot and dirt from around the outside of the window surrounds. A little polish helped here as well. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144843_zpsc0e344bb.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144904_zps9a7421b2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144927_zpsd2fbccac.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150120_zps5aaef220.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150134_zpsdd480456.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150156_zps75560c5a.jpg[/IMG] The interior trim overlaps the frames on the outside, I considered trimming it off but I didn't want to risk scoring the paint so I just left it as it was. It is visible after seal goes on. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20144938_zps7a01f995.jpg[/IMG] After it was nice and clean I then went about putting on the rubber seal. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150402_zpsee986397.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150523_zps0f0a580a.jpg[/IMG] It wrinkled up a bit at the corners and I'll make sure that the corners and nice and open [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150917_zps9e4a78d6.jpg[/IMG] I paid particular attention to the corners to make sure that the seal was pushed firmly into the corners and was compressed in its length as much as I could as I worked around the window. I was very conscious to ensure that I had not stretched the rubber as I put it into the frame. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20150627_zps464be0f3.jpg[/IMG] The seal which was supplied with the window was significantly longer than what it needed to be and it had to be cut to length. When I had got the rubber onto the frame all the way around at the join I made sure that I cut it significantly longer so that I could jam it in to make sure that it was under compression. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20151103_zpsf7082be3.jpg[/IMG] I considered where I would put the joint and decided to put the joint at the top in the middle. My reasoning here was that if any moisture got into the join it would trickle down onto the window and be very visible however if the join was at the bottom it would trickle into the car bodywork and I may not be able to see that it was leaking. I applied some detergent mix to where the window glass was going to go so that if I needed to I was able to move the glass in the rubber. A word of caution here I ended up putting too much mix in and around the seal which made it difficult to remove later on. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20151723_zps9a270566.jpg[/IMG] After a light spray around all the outside of the seal I then positioned the glass in the bottom channel. I need two hands on the glass at all times here so no pictures I'm afraid. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20151822_zpsdc4cf23d.jpg[/IMG] Then using the small applicator that I'd made and working from the back I carefully pushed the rubber seal from behind the glass to in front of the glass working up the sides first. With the back door open and the front door open I was easily able to reach both sides of the glass pushing the seal from the back and pushing the glass from the front all except the very middle of the frame right at the top. If I had a helper this last little bit would've been very much easier. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20152141_zps0a5fdf7e.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20152522_zps709b0268.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20152529_zps80ebdbc2.jpg[/IMG] After the glass had been manoeuvred into the seal it was then time to put the retaining strip around the outside to force the seal in and around the glass. This process was made very much easier by using the little wire applicator that I've made for the seal to go in and it opened up the gap and push the seal in at the same time. I believe these are available commercially and it's probably worth buying or borrowing one of these applicators if you're going to do this process yourself. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20153135_zps9d8c49b5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20153154_zps7fdbd16a.jpg[/IMG] This process needs a fair bit of force to work your way around the seal and it's particularly difficult at the corners, so take your time. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20153504_zpsdbd33e9d.jpg[/IMG] Sometimes the retainer didn't go all the way in on the first pass, it was easier just to ignore these and come back to these with the other applicator. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20153703_zpsa585b1d7.jpg[/IMG] This locking piece is also much longer than is required so it's important to make sure that it's not stretched as you put it in and make sure that you cut it a little bit longer than what is required and then you can force that last little piece in so there is no gap. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20154353_zps9361300d.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20154431_zps57eea086.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20154515_zps379d4dc7.jpg[/IMG] A few thumps on the glass around the edge just to make sure that it's in the right place then you can remove the rest of the film and give the whole lot a good hosing down to get rid of the detergent. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20154524_zpsd55e9180.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/Patrol%20Pics/Replacing%20the%20rusty%20sliders/2013-02-20154537_zpsc980f328.jpg[/IMG] Well, that's about it! There is one process that was inadvertently left out on the second one that I'd forgotten about. Irritates the heck out of me but I'm not taking it off now to fix it. The original sliders have a slight vertical curve in their profile shape. These windows are flat. I believe the curved ones are available if you search around. I went with these as I was assured that they will go in - and they do - but to make them fit just that little better some slight body work on the vertical flanges before you put them in can reduce the curve almost completely. I did this on the first one with a heavy metal bar held on the inside of the flange and some careful blows with a wooden mallet. I forgot to do this on the second one and it doesn't fit quite as well. However at this stage it's acceptable. Edit: It's a month or two later and I have to report that the bending of the flanges is NOT needed. The side that I'd not done this to is fine and the wrinkles around the corners have diminished greatly by themselves.

Posted 2013-02-21 21:46:49 by Chris W

Serious Sounding Motor Clunk Under Load - I Fear Something Bad Has Happened.

Wed, 05 Dec 2012 21:45:52 -0600

Chris Williams' Journal --

Had to get a tow home this morning.

On the way into Gosford this morning it suddenly developed a serious sounding knock but only under load. I was just thinking how good it was running and apart from the noise appeared to be still running ok. Oil pressure still ok, about 60 but I had/have noticed a intermittent fluctuation in the needle.

Pulled over but had difficulty getting it to make the noise at idle and giving the throttle blips. Under light throttle it ran quietly and even though I was in heavy traffic I managed to get it somewhere I could leave it.

There was a noticeable difference in the exhaust note, a bit lumpy, not really a miss. Anyway I called for a tow and it's now at home in disgrace in the garage.

When I pulled over, I took off the rocker cover because the noise sounded like a heavy valve train noise but all appeared ok there and the slight noise I could get when blipping the throttle seemed to be coming low down at the back of the motor. Definitely sounded like it was inside and not some ancillary clunking/knocking.

When I got it home I started it and it ran a bit lumpily and there was noise at idle that I couldn't hear before but not the clunking. I shut it off and came inside and here I am.

I'll give it a compression check and go over the motor to make sure it's not something outside but I have this feeling that another pulldown is in my future.

It's only got about 10,000 miles on the complete engine rebuild but I assembled it myself so anything is possible.

I'll get back to you,

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/2012-12-06091719.jpg[/IMG]

Update. Well the head's coming off to start with.

Compression test: Cyl 1 = 0, unable to be measured and severe sucking noise coming from 2 during cranking. Cyl 2 = same as 1 with the same sucking noise from 1, Cyl 3 = 120, Cyl 4 =140.

Definitely something going on between 1 and 2, however, I can't see that this is the main game, I'm pretty sure there is something else going on lower down.

Anyway the heads got to come off so I'll have some more news later.

After that and if there's nothing to indicate the clunk, rather than fiddle about under the car with the pan, I think I'll just pull the lot. It wasn't that long ago that I did that with the gearbox/clutch fix so I think I'll do it that way and give the lower end a good checking out. Best case it's a set of gaskets and a couple of days. But I just want to be sure.

Posted 2012-12-05 21:45:52 by Chris W

Revisit The Hand Brake Adjustment.

Fri, 19 Oct 2012 06:18:36 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

This is the text of an issue I put to the forum group. It generated quite a bit of discussion.

"Quite a long time ago this point was raised here - IIRC by me, without a definitive resolution.

I don't have a great handbrake, it's been marginal on the last 2 rego checks and I'm due for another check. I don't have any more adjustment on the cable at the tunnel, in fact the anti rattle spring was removed to get every last bit of adjustment and there is also evidence of the anchor point a little further back on the side of the tunnel having been moved at one point to try to get more.

The obvious solution is to get a new cable but I've been reluctant to do that because it was said to me some time ago that my problem was not the cable but the fact that my rear drums had been machined and the lever mechanism at the brakes couldn't take up the slack and the only 'proper' solution is to get new drums or do a cut and lengthen modification to the lever mechanism.
The source of this was Bruce at Sportsparts here in Sydney. He has an excellent reputation on his knowledge hereabouts so I inclined to not discount his opinion - just yet.

Does this sound familiar to anyone and is there anyone who has first hand experience with machined rear drums and any issues that that caused with the hand brake.
I'm an early, single line brake system so I need my hand brake to work well.

This is the part that it was suggested that I lengthen by about 5mm:"
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Parkbrakelever.jpg[/IMG]

After a few different suggestions and comments, I decided, as a interim measure to make a spacer to push the cable outer back about 20mm.

The following series of pictures show the production process:

The plan and the starting piece of square steel 1/2".
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19122314.jpg[/IMG]

Mark and centre punch both ends for drilling:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19123117.jpg[/IMG]

Setting up in drill vice for drilling:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19123225.jpg[/IMG]

Drilled 1/8" from both ends - minimises drill wander on long drilling:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19123505.jpg[/IMG]

Used a 3.5mm drill bit to 'ream' out and give a clearance holes for 1/8". Also trues up any ridge from the two 1/8" meeting:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19123505.jpg[/IMG]

Counterbored 3/8", 1/2" deep: (as it turns out this should have been 5/16" hole)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19125126.jpg[/IMG]

Careful marking out, hacksawing and filing to produce the spigot on the other end to match the hole for the cable outer. (again, this should have been 5/16" and after I'd finished I had to reduce this to 5/16")
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19132648.jpg[/IMG]

Another view of the spigot:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19132657.jpg[/IMG]

1/8" slot cut with hacksaw - 2 cuts - and cleaned up with a warding file. Careful use of a 1/8" drill bit used like a milling cutter also made sure it was the right width.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19133428.jpg[/IMG]

Another view of the slot:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19134348.jpg[/IMG]

The finished piece, after I'd reduced the spigot to 5/16". Ready to go in:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19143415.jpg[/IMG]

The piece in position with some grease in the slot:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Brakes%20and%20steering/Hand%20brake%20issues/2012-10-19143657.jpg[/IMG]

Oh. BTW remember the comment in the previous journal entry about my welding up of the crack in the floor. You can see the messy underside in this picture also.
I've decide that I will eventually cut this out completely and replace it with a patch. The nut is stripped anyway.

Getting back to the spacer - after reassembly, I'm not convinced of its worth but it will do for now.

Posted 2012-10-19 06:18:36 by Chris W

Thank Goodness For Grinders 'cause...

Thu, 18 Oct 2012 23:30:17 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I can't weld for shit!
I've had some tuition in down-hand stick welding and I did a course on Oxy many years ago and I used to think I was a pretty fair welder. I've never had any formal training with Mig and it's all trial and error for me. Sometimes I get it right - most times - not.

This is a 'most times'.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16110251.jpg[/IMG]

After grinding:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16112048.jpg[/IMG]

The combination of failing eyesight, a 'cheap' Mig machine that has a dodgey wire feed and a "don't know WTF I'm doing' factor results in this.

Just as well the carpet covers it. One the good side I'm confident that it's solid - it just looks like shit.

Oh, you may be interested to know that the hand is coming along fine got the last of the stitches out on Friday and I'm still being careful with it but I'm starting to get back to normal, Still hurts like hell though sometimes and still stiff - can't make a fist yet.

The second one went a bit better, mainly because the cutting and fitting was better.

Cutting out, leaving a bit more overlap.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16130439.jpg[/IMG]

The piece fitted in underneath.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16134307.jpg[/IMG]

and the final weld, still not great but didn't bother too much with grinding. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16155848.jpg[/IMG]

As far as penetration goes - because of the thickness of the sheet or lack of it, I'm pretty sure I've got sufficient, in fact I had the opposite issue, blow through.

The rear support that was failing got the better of me and I was sick of fiddling with bits and pieces so I just welded up the crack. Well that didn't go very well and I spent a lot of time chasing holes. I shudder to think what the underside looks like. The top I just kept laying weld over and over then went nuts with the grinder.

A coat of grey undercoat and I called it done.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16162751.jpg[/IMG]

After everything was dry I laid the insulation and carpet back in and attached the seat.

I haven't got any photos of this but I did take the seat apart and put a layer of foam - 50mm - thick on top of the webbing. Turned out to be a little too thick but it'll compress down.

One issue that I'll have to revisit, annoyingly, when I was putting the seat back in the rear thread stripped. Yes the one I'd decided not to replace. It's holding, just but I'll have to fix that later.

Posted 2012-10-18 23:30:17 by Chris W

Back At It Slowly.

Thu, 18 Oct 2012 23:25:45 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Started to get back to the car after a extended time away from it.

Using the pieces that I formed a week or so ago I started to work out how much to take out of the floor and decided to cut a smaller piece so as not to interfere too much with the floors attachment to the cross member.

Rounded corners seemed to be the way to go:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15131412.jpg[/IMG]

I decided on 20mm hole saw and almost destroyed it not being careful enough. Snapped the drill piece and took a decent chunk out of the 'new' cutter.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15133713.jpg[/IMG]

I don't have a hand drill which is suitable for this sort of thing. My big drill is much too fast, even on the slowest speed. I have a 'speed' controller that was made from a kit. (rescued from school, it failed a electrical test and was to be thrown out) Even on it's lowest setting it still too fast. So the holes were eventually drilled very gingerly.
Using my trusty angle grinder with 1mm blades, I carefully cut out the first floor piece and then proceeded to prepare the new pice for the hole.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15135005.jpg[/IMG]

Rather than just use standard nuts, I had some little slugs of 20mm dia steel about 12mm long and I drilled and tapped those to suit. I did 3 of them.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15164851.jpg[/IMG]

I marked where the hole had to be from the piece I cut out of the floor and using a bolt to hold them in place, I welded them on.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15164904.jpg[/IMG]

Again, using the piece I'd cut out as a template I marked out where I had to trim the blanks I'd stamped.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15165528.jpg[/IMG]

Adding a little for overlap.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15165820.jpg[/IMG]

I was able to cut them easily on my bench shears.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15170513.jpg[/IMG]

I wanted these pieces to go under the floor, sitting on the crossmember and with some careful bending I was able to manuover it into place ready for welding.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15172054.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15172524.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-15172755.jpg[/IMG]

I pored some penetrol into the hole and swished it around with a brush and I painted the rear of the blank before I put it in. and tacked it in place.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-16103436.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2012-10-18 23:25:45 by Chris W

It May Not Be Pretty But It Worked Great - Until The Blood Started Flowing.

Tue, 02 Oct 2012 18:20:59 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Typing this with one hand. More about that later.

I needed to form some patch pieces to weld into the floor where the seat attaches.
I decided that I'd have a go at fabricating a mould that I could use to stamp the shape I needed to replace the two raised bits in the floor that the front captive nuts are attached to. Went to Bunnings and bought small bit of sheet steel, 'bout 1.2mm - 18g.
Made up a mould out of 3 pieces of 10mm thick steel and a 1/4" plug that I reckoned will form the section with a couple of blows with a 9lb sledge.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-02145044.jpg[/IMG]

Worked great! I used the jagged piece I'd cut out on top to concentrate the blows directly over the plug and hit it twice to get a good result.
Here's the setup and the hammer.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-02154952.jpg[/IMG]

and here's the finished bit. Just needs some trimming and the captive nut attached:

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-02154907.jpg[/IMG]

Set up for the second one, whack! Almost did it in one hit. Set up for another hit and unfortunately wasn't quite as accurate with this blow and I must have caught the back edge of the jagged block and it shot out hitting my knuckle, then my knee and shot off into the bushes.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-02170155.jpg[/IMG]

3 hours later, 6 stitches and a stiff hand, I couldn't find the bit that hit me. Here's a picture of it after I'd cut it out. It's 3/8" thick.
When the Doc was stitching me up he pulled back the flap and showed me how close I came to cutting the tendon.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-02142416.jpg[/IMG]

So, that's what I did today. I'll have to wait a few days now for my hand to feel a bit better before I can finish the job.

There's some more pics of the good bit here:
[url]http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/[/url]

Well it's the morning after and it hurts like hell. Didn't sleep well last night and I should have got up and taken something. It's the whack that hurts the most not so much the cut.

Found the bit that hit me - not the wisest choice or I should have welded it on.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-03100058.jpg[/IMG]

I reckon the Taliban would love to fill their bombs with bits shaped like this.

A few suggestions where made when I posted this on the forum.
As far as a press being a better choice - yes, safer but I was after the stamping action to get sharper definition.

A vice just won't have cut it, the blank was far too thick - a bit like me. :)

I'm reminded of this post from a few years ago.

[url]http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,492148,492148#msg-492148[/url]

Yep that's me too! If it's a trend I should be ok 'till 2017.

Posted 2012-10-02 18:20:59 by Chris W

Seat Support Captive Nut Area Failing.

Sun, 30 Sep 2012 22:49:18 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I suspected something was going on with one (or more) of the seat supports in the floor. I could hear/feel a clicking noise when I moved around in the seat.
And I wanted to revisit the seat cushion and maybe bolster the base a bit so when I took everything out just now this is what I found.

Front right:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01131658.jpg[/IMG]

Front centre:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01131712.jpg[/IMG]

Rear centre:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01131736.jpg[/IMG]

The other one was good. It had had a reinforcement put on it by the PO. There is/was evidence that these areas had been welded up before.
The floor was patched a bit more by me at the time and after putting a hand sized patch in the floor I remember lamenting that the patch should have been bigger - maybe even the whole floor replaced - but at this stage that ship has sailed.

Silver POR15 with grey POR15 over the top. I think I'm going to have trouble getting that off to weld in some fix patches. I'm going to form some rectangular cup pieces to fit over the sections with nuts already attached and cut the top out of those little sections and weld the new pieces in. Same thing with the back one but just a 'u' shape.
While I've got the channel open it will give me the opportunity to get in there and use some penetrol inside as well.

Hour or two later:

I went over each area with a pencil on paper to get an outline in case I need spacings later.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01154444.jpg[/IMG]

Using a wire cup brush on the angle grinder stripped off the coating remarkably easily.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01152722.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01152731.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Floors%20and%20Interior/2012-10-01152739.jpg[/IMG]

I'm surprised how pitted the steel is. I don't remember it being that bad.

Well, now I need to find some suitable stock for some patches.

Posted 2012-09-30 22:49:18 by Chris W

The Fix!

Wed, 19 Sep 2012 00:09:52 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I remembered that this portion of the car was not in good condition when I did the recovery a few years back but I was confident it was solid metal - at least in this area.
I bought a couple of stripping wheels, 2 wire wheels and two cans of undercoat in anticipation of doing this job. I knew I had a can of top coat in the cupboard so I should have been right to start.
Last Sunday afternoon I decided to start and I jacked up the rear and supported it on two jack stands, just to put it at a more comfortable height.
The bumper came off with just two nuts and the number plate lights disconnected easily.
Using my angle grinder with a stripping wheel on it, I stripped the bump and surrounding area back to metal.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16120155.jpg[/IMG]

Metal was solid but very crinkly. I'd used a fair bit of filler to get it smooth.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16120204.jpg[/IMG]

Now, I imagined this prior to starting and wanted to get the dent out and also try to get it smoother before filling and painting. Using a piece of hard wood I cut and smoothed a matching curve in the wood.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16121106.jpg[/IMG]

Using the wood to back up the panel I belted it back into shape, going over the surrounding area to try to get it smooth.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16121117.jpg[/IMG]

I was using two different sizes of ball pane hammer and although I found it more difficult than I'd imagined I managed to get a result that I was happy with. After a wipe over, I gave it a coat of grey etch primer.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16125459.jpg[/IMG]

It's still a bit wrinkly but better than it was.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16125510.jpg[/IMG]

I gave it a coat of red oxide primer and put some filler over the surface to try and get it smoother. Sanded off and primed with the gray and then the red again.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16155506.jpg[/IMG]

I did this a few times, having some difficult with the filler as it was getting old and stiff to use.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16155521.jpg[/IMG]

Eventually got it to the point where I simply used the red primer to build up a surface that I could sand flat and smooth
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16174740.jpg[/IMG]

Continued with the red primer - sanding between coats until I was happy with the surface.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-16174803.jpg[/IMG]

Left it overnight and sanded it back carefully and was pretty happy with the result. Then I removed all the tape and masking and wiped it over with some wax and grease remover. Masked it up again and put some colour on it.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-17111805.jpg[/IMG]

Spent a lot of time spraying and waiting for it to dry. Some light sanding between some of the coats until I was happy.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-17111822.jpg[/IMG]

Put about five coats of colour on.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-17111815.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-17111828.jpg[/IMG]

After letting it dry and spending some time polishing the bumper, I straightened up the bumper brackets and assembled all the bits back on the car.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-17151634.jpg[/IMG]

Took me about 24hrs in total.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-09-17151659.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2012-09-19 00:09:52 by Chris W

Got The Cash! All Good!

Sun, 16 Sep 2012 23:38:10 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Well, a few other personal issues have put this on hold but I had a few repair places look at it and two of them wouldn't touch it but one of them sent to a guy who does "these old cars". Anyway he gave me a quote for $275 and I rang her and she started rattling off about police reports and insurance claims and I interrupted her and said I have a quote for that amount and said I'd be happy with enough for me to fix it myself. Long story short, the hubby turns up today and stuffs a wad of cash in my hand and apologises for his wife and says "$275 right?" we shake hands and he takes off. All good.

Posted 2012-09-16 23:38:10 by Chris W

First Bingle - Rear Ended!

Sun, 16 Sep 2012 23:36:34 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Got me! Waiting in a line of traffic to turn right and it felt like I'd dropped the clutch and stalled it. Looked up and the rear vision mirror is full of a Prado's grill.

Hopped out to check and in the bright sunlight couldn't see any damage even though the Prados bumper is on top of the overriders.

Pull around the corner and we both stop and I check it out more carefully. The overrider had pushed the rear panel in and then sprung back.

Lady is prepared to pay for it but seeing as it was pretty crappy before I think I'll knock it out and fill and rattle can it myself and she can give me $100 or so for my trouble.

Every one makes mistakes and it could have been worse.
Don't know if you can see it in the picture but the back of the dent is easy to get to. On the other side the fuel filler stopped it going all the way forward. The bumper is a bit skewed but undamaged.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-08-30155056.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Rear%20end%20fix/2012-08-30155141.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2012-09-16 23:36:34 by Chris W

Seat Belt Hanger Uppers

Mon, 16 Jul 2012 23:20:03 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

This has been a topic of conversation on and off on the forum and there is a seat belt guide available that uses the head rest stalk as support. No headrests!

Those little magnets that come out of old hard disks have been very handy and I started using one of those to hold the seat belt clip to the soft top frame with some success but sometimes they would stick to the clip instead of the frame and become a nuisance. I started to suspect that there might be a different type available for sale so a visit to Jaycar and I came home with this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/2012-07-17150153.jpg[/IMG]

Added a SS CS screw to it and the pictures tell the story.

Marking the spot and centre punching:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/2012-07-17150236.jpg[/IMG]

Drilling 4mm:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/2012-07-17151312.jpg[/IMG]

Tapping 5mm X 0.8mm:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/2012-07-17151223.jpg[/IMG]

Attached together, a little blue locktite on thread:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/2012-07-17151729.jpg[/IMG]

The clip held very securely:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Misc/2012-07-17151707.jpg[/IMG]

The magnet are VERY strong and it doesn't need much to hold. You probably could get away with a smaller one but that was what I could get over the counter.
One caution, however, they are very expensive. I only bought one. if I do the other side I'll look on eBay and see if I can get it cheaper.

But it works great!

Posted 2012-07-16 23:20:03 by Chris W

Sea Of Hose Clamps No More

Thu, 28 Jun 2012 07:51:31 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

You may remember this entry a little while ago:

[url]http://www.mgexperience.net/journal/sweep/7686[/url]

I mentioned at the time that the conversion resulted in a sea of hose clamps. Well i revisited the situation and after a visit to Pirtek I ended up with this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0176.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0177.jpg[/IMG]

This is what it looked like before! 4 hose clamps made redundant!

[img]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0135.jpg[/img]

Posted 2012-06-28 07:51:31 by Chris W

Problem Found And Fixed Within The Distributor.

Sun, 03 Jun 2012 16:00:38 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

This is the text that I put in the post on the forum related to this issue:

OK, no guesses - you're all probably bored with this now anyway.

Still, someone might be still reading.

Well here is what appears to be the culprit:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0144.jpg[/IMG]

I was replacing the points and the condenser and this fell off in my hand, Crappy manufacturing! This was a new distributor a couple of years ago.

I took the distributor out and using some wire braid and a little fibreglass woven insulation, made this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0146.jpg[/IMG]

I also made a slight modification to the LT lead so I could use a standard set of points from the correct distributor.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0149.jpg[/IMG]

Put it all back together and :):):)

So that's it! Seth was probably the closest in his diagnosis but the real culprit is the dope who put such a stiff bit of wire in a position where it was going to be flexing and had no provision for it to do that.

Edit: Actually George nailed it - he just talks too much and I missed it first off :)

Posted 2012-06-03 16:00:38 by Chris W

Issue With The Motor Running Like Crap!

Thu, 31 May 2012 23:27:39 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I'd started discussion of this topic in the forum [url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2080152,2080152#msg-2080152]Here![/url] and started this update there but decided it was more suited here and just put a link to here, there.

Yesterday morning I went to start it and although it started easily it was running like crap and wouldn't idle or run smoothly at all. Had to leave it and take the other car but I had a chance to spend some time on this later in the afternoon and the evening.

I had suspected a fuel issue as Wayne had mentioned in the above forum post (Hell, I even suspected alien intervention) so I thought I'd see if I could find a glass bowl filter, so I could see what was going on in that department. Anyway after looking at a few places I came up with this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0141.jpg[/IMG]

Got it from a boating place although I did see something similar at Repco later. (and it was cheaper! :X ) I also picked up some new fuel line from Pirtex.

I started off, after another try at starting it, by taking off the other filter and fitted the new one. It, being and in-line arrangement, didn't fit as neatly as the other one and it is a bit of a complicated affair being a 'sea' of hose clamps.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0135.jpg[/IMG]

After that did some basic checks:
Checked for spark - ok.
Checked one of the fuel bowls for crap - ok.
Took off the dist. cap and rotor, cleaned them and they too looked ok.
Checked the points gap - ok. Needs cleaning but shouldn't be causing issue.

Got it running after a bit of struggling and seemed to be running better. (maybe it was fuel.)
Used the timing light and did a bit of a check of the timing. Again ok about 10-15 on a fast idle. Needs to be revisited... but.
Took out the spark plugs - ok.
Did a compression test - 150, 155, 140 and 150. Number 3 down a bit.. but.
Decided to check the valve clearances and when taking off the rocker cover found these. More crap rubber bits:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0131.jpg[/IMG]

These were new with the engine overhaul a few years ago and they just fell apart.
After picking all the bits out of the valve train, I used a piece of 3/16" cork and made these.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/PICT0132.jpg[/IMG]

They don't locate like the rubber ones but at least they should stay together.

After doing a pretty rough check of the clearances, I decide that there was nothing there that would be an issue and I put it back together.

I put everything back together again and hooked up my engine analyser and started going through the points check, and dwell.

It was running much better and the dwell was spot on. The point resistance was not good but wasn't real bad either.
I took it for a run and it ran like a top.

I still haven't found the 'smoking gun' but it seemed ok.

That was yesterday!

Today I started it up and there was still that suggestion that all was not well.

Anyway I took off and it missed a bit but after it warmed up it ran beautifully.

Still, while I was out I picked up a new set of plugs, some points and a condenser and maybe this weekend I'll replace those and see how I go.

The lower compression in number 3 is a bit worrying, however.

Posted 2012-05-31 23:27:39 by Chris W

Another Go At The Speedo. & Old Innards Pics.

Fri, 25 May 2012 06:54:06 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I really don't want to take this out again. So as I mentioned last time I thought I may be able to sort it while still in the dash. Reaching around the back again I was able to loosen the two knurled nuts so the gauge came forward about 5mm. It was a bit of a struggle but the bezel and the glass came off and I undid what I did to the needle the other day. ie. unhooked it from the stop and let the needle go back around. It wouldn't go back to zero unless I flicked it or pushed it back. Generally it would sit at about 30kph. Using the two tea spoon trick that someone mentioned, I popped off the needle and moved it around so it was pretty well at zero when it sort of centralised. Took it for a drive and stopped and started and fiddled about and I think I ended up with it as it was before - sort of accurate but very sluggish and won't go back below about 30kph. I think I know what the issue is and it's my fault . We have to go back a few years to when I took it apart before. At that time I cleaned off all the old dried grease and rather than not have any lubricant I used what i had and put a little petroleum jelly on the moving parts. This I think was a big mistake as this is too thick and offers too much resistance to the movement of the needle. To fix this properly I have to strip it down again, clean that off and use something a lot lighter to lubricate. But that is for later, when I forget what a bear it is to take out and put back in. So a bit of fiddling got the glass and the bezel back on and I tightened the nuts back up. One other thing I want to do is change the knurled nuts for the speedo. They work ok for the tacho but a different design for the speedo would make it easier, especially because of the earth leads which are attached here as well. Something like this: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedoknurlednut.jpg[/IMG] Later Edit. I was looking through some old photos and came across these 10 pictures. I was saying (here or in another entry) That I couldn't remember taking the face off to get the innards out. Photographic evidence that I must've. :) [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2753_zps3327cf44.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2754_zps841aa558.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2755_zps09e9bee3.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2756_zps23dca1f1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2757_zps71dd08fd.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2758_zpsec7e9f95.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2759_zps8c07e5b4.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2760_zps1b5568b7.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2761_zpsc2535caa.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2762_zpsa4372b58.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/Speedo%20Innards/PICT2763_zps1d88c7da.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2012-05-25 06:54:06 by Chris W

Result With Tacho - Not So With Speedo.

Wed, 23 May 2012 05:48:12 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Went to Docs and gym this morning and when I came home I was sitting in the car and started thinking about and looking at the two gauges in front of me.

Next thing I know I'm sitting there with the tacho in my hands and thinking 'well that was easy'.

Popped off the bezel and the glass - again easy! Then pondered on how the innards came out. Took it inside and used a kitchen knife to pry out the surround with the rubber in it and could see that only 2 screws where holding the guts in there.

Screwdriver made short work of that and I'm studying the innards. Don't think I'd had this apart before.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0126.jpg[/IMG]

Well the trim pot is very obvious, it's that black thing at the top:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0125.jpg[/IMG]

It looked like it would be easy to hook the innards back up in the car and attempt to adjust with the other gauge as a control. When I first hooked it back up it wouldn't work! Then it dawned on me that it needed an earth. So I found a short lead with an eye on it and attached it to one of the screws that I'd removed to take the innards out. That's the green wire here:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0121.jpg[/IMG]

The engine analyser was attached to the motor and sat just in front of the windscreen:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0122.jpg[/IMG]

Then with a screwdriver while juggling the throttle to get steady revs via the analyser, I was able to adjust the trimpot to match the tachos reading to the analysers:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Dash%20Restore/PICT0124.jpg[/IMG]

Pretty easy actually and I checked it at a few different readings 1000, 2000 and briefly at 4000.

Put the tacho back together carefully and thought about the speedo.

Decided to take it out and have a go at that. Long story short - couldn't remember how it came apart because of the trip meter stalk.
Well, I posed the question on the forum but because of the time difference of most of the members, got no answer. So had a brain snap and wound the needle around and hooked it over the stop again. Bone head move as it turns out because now there way too much tension on the needle and it won't move at all on a test run.
I also had the devil of a time getting it back in - tacho went in reasonably easily. Still a bugger but the speedo is a real turd!

Anyway this evening after a failed test run on speedo (tacho appears to work well) I checked the forum post and did some extensive searches and it appears that the needle and the face of the gauge has to come off. I don't remember having to do that - but I must've.
Anyway that's the plan. I may be able to do it without removing the gauge completely. If I undo what I did today with the needle I may be able to take the needle off, run it with a temporary needle made from a small piece of masking tape and take note of where it is pointing at , say 70kph using the GPS and then come home and work out where the needle needs to go accordingly.

We'll see tomorrow. Stay tuned.

Posted 2012-05-23 05:48:12 by Chris W

Getting Fussy Now!

Mon, 21 May 2012 04:00:50 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I've put up with a dogey speedo since I put it back on the road but now that the OD is functioning well the cars ability at speed is now an issue.
As well as that it's become obvious that the Tacho is grossly overstating the rpms of the motor. I'd always struggled to get it to idle at a suitable speed by the tacho and now it seems that the tacho was giving me the wrong readings.

I have an engine analyser that does dwell, amps, volts and rpms that I've had for ages - I made mention of it when I checked the action of the OD solenoid.
I'd always thought that is was giving me bad readings and for some reason I had trusted the cars Tacho over it.

When I mentioned in a post on the forum the different rpms with and without OD in 4th. Several members questioned the readings and I went back and hooked up the meter and if I assume the meter is reasonably accurate then the tacho is way out.

At 2k on the meter the tacho reads over 3k and at 4k on the meter the tacho is redlining. No way it's revving that fast!

So the tacho has to come out and I've got a few links to data on how to rehab and adjust it.
While I'm there I'll do the speedo as well. When I pulled the speedo apart before I don't think I put enough preload on the needle and it's slow to return to zero - in fact it doesn't go back lower than about 30 kph.
It's pretty accurate after that on the way up but is very slow to return on the way back. I think I can fix that.
I don't really need it to be that accurate, I just need it to give a good sweep from zero up and back again.
The numbers are an overlay that I did and that can be adjusted to suit what I end up with.

That is the next plan. I'm just not looking forward to delving up into the scarey recesses of the 'dark side of the dash'.

Posted 2012-05-21 04:00:50 by Chris W

Some Running Around And A New Speedo Cable.

Thu, 17 May 2012 03:38:59 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Having finished off the clutch re-visit, I've been enjoying the exploration of the OD. After the initial shake-down mentioned in the previous entry I was keen to give it a good decent run.
So after checking on eBay and finding nothing, I gave Heritage motors a ring to enquire about a OD speedo cable.
After some discussion on the phone it was established that they had one there and they would send it up to me.
"Hang on, I might take a ride down and get it." Ok, they will leave it on the counter waiting for me. If I change my mind give them a ring and we'll send it out.

Ok. Sounds like a plan. A good freeway run. Never taken the MGB that far into the city before.
So I set off. Top of the hill, just before the expressway, I stopped to fill up and I was a little worried 'cause it wasn't running real good - nothing major - just didn't feel right. So I filled it with unleaded without ethanol. Normally I just run on E10.
Pulled over to check the tyres as well and popped the bonnet just to look at everything. Absentmindedly I reached in to check the plug leads.

Hang on! This plug's loose! WTF they're ALL loose.
Then it dawned on me. I'd taken the plugs out to turn the motor over for some reason that escapes me now and I remember just putting them back just to fill up the hole and thinking I'll tighten them later.
Well, I never did. What a bone-head! That could have been nasty.

Anyway I had a old plug spanner with me so I was able to pull them out, check them and tighten them back in. What a dingbat!

Any way after that it ran a lot better and I went down to Smithfield and back without a hitch.

Next day I put the cable it and all is well. The speedo is still not reading correctly but it is the same as it was before.

I'll have another go at sorting that out another day. It doesn't go all the way to zero. I believe that when I pulled it down a few years ago I didn't put enough tension on the spring inside.
I think it would be a simple matter to pull it down again and change that.

Posted 2012-05-17 03:38:59 by Chris W

Great When A Plan Comes Together!

Mon, 14 May 2012 00:07:05 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Started this morning and checked that the bolts would go in beside the U joints. Yes! Easy-ish!

So to drill the holes to couple it together.
I was anticipating this to be more difficult than it was so I've gone a bit overboard with the photos. So because I took them you have to look at them!

I thought that I was in for a long fiddly process of measuring and drilling the holes 'cause I wanted to sure they were accurate. Well hit on a short cut using an old valve stem that happened to be the exact size - 5/16". So holding it in a cordless power drill and resting against my bench grinder, I was able to accurately grind it to a point to act as a centre punch as shown in the series of pics below.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0098.jpg[/IMG]
Close up of ground tip.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0099.jpg[/IMG]
How it was set up to use.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0101.jpg[/IMG]
The resulting punch mark. Probably more accurate than I could measure, mark out and then punch.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0102.jpg[/IMG]
Then a 1/8" pilot hole. Allowed the the centre punch mark to do the precise alignment of the drill, holding it loosely so it can move to the exact place then holding it tightly. Only works with small drills.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0103.jpg[/IMG]
Then using the drill bit to position, I clamped it in position for the next two drills - 19/64" and then 5/16" without moving the setup.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0104.jpg[/IMG]
And the 5/16".
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0105.jpg[/IMG]

Using a short bolt to locate, the opposite one is marked and drilled the same way.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0106.jpg[/IMG]
Using 2 bolts to positively locate, the other two positions are marked.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0107.jpg[/IMG]
And the second one.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0108.jpg[/IMG]

The two remaining punch marks are shown here.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0109.jpg[/IMG]

After drilling I used a hand drill to slightly countersink the holes front and back.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0110.jpg[/IMG]

And here's the finished piece from both sides.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0111.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0112.jpg[/IMG]

Well I was ready to go! Well, no! In practice the holes were just a little snug so I ended up taking them out to 21/64" and they went together quite easily under the car.

The only other thing I had to do was deal with a missing screw retaining the speedo input. I couldn't find the screw. I don't remember taking it out so I'm thinking it wasn't there in the first place. I just wanted something to make sure the spindle wasn't going to fall out. So I found a bolt that fit 5/16" UNC apparently and ground a little spigot on the end and put it in with a bit of locktite. When I get my new speedo cable I'll sort it out properly.

Well that's it - so it's time for a test drive.

Again long story short - YES YES YES! :) Smooth clutch AND functioning OD. :)

:) :) :) :) :) :)

Works great on the way up. Haven't mastered it on the way down. Remember I haven't got the vacuum switch. So in the meantime I'm clutching on the way down.

It's another good MGB day. Can't wait 'till I can give it a good test drive.

:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

Posted 2012-05-14 00:07:05 by Chris W

The Driveshaft Adapter.

Sun, 13 May 2012 17:06:47 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Did this on Friday - haven't had a chance to write it up 'till now.

Annoyed at myself for not taking more photos, especially of the block I started with.
Made more frustrating because the times I thought of taking pics I didn't have my camera with me, I'd completely forgotten about my new phone which has a decent camera in it and this was in my pocket the whole time! In fact the 3 pics I have I took with it. They're not great but certainly acceptable.

Well, continuing on, I needed a slug of steel about 86 x 30 and when I went to the steel merchants in the morning - I had to wait for them to open at 7.30am - the closest they thought they had was 90mm dia. Perfect! However, in reality they couldn't find that size in the yard so I went with 100mm dia x40mm. Just a 'bit' more turning. Cost me $15. Sort of a min charge, he reckons he actually gave me a 47% discount. Yeah right!

Still, not too bad.

Went to school to check that I was able to use the lathe and then went to the gym then home to do some 'housework'.
Went back in and spent a couple of hours and came up with this.
This is the side that the shaft attaches to:
I set this up in a 4 jaw independent chuck with the jaws reversed. The recess is a lot deeper than required but I did that so I'd have plenty to grip on the outside of the 3 jaw chuck jaws. (the reverse jaws of the 3 jaw had been lost many years ago.)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/2012-05-11185103.jpg[/IMG]

This is the side which goes to the box. I would have liked to have bored the centre right out but I didn't have time and I couldn't find a boring bar. Same with the large groove around the centre. It's a bit heavy.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/2012-05-11185055.jpg[/IMG]

This shot shows the spare flange on the adapter. The ring around the outside about 5mm up is simply a machining mark where i'd changed the angle of the tool. It's only visible and you can't feel it.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/2012-05-11185138.jpg[/IMG]

After this I took it to my bolts supplier to see about the studs before I drilled for those. Well, long story short, no studs available without special order or me modifying bolts. So I got 4 long bolts and I'll check if I can get them in the drive shaft flange before I simply drill the adapter 5/16".
I suppose that's the easiest and quickest anyway.

Stay tuned for that.

Posted 2012-05-13 17:06:47 by Chris W

Mozzies Chased Me Off So Next Day.

Thu, 10 May 2012 05:30:37 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Mosquitos have been horrendous lately here at any time of day. So thick I had to give it away yesterday.

This morning I went mad with the Aeroguard and managed to replace the fuel filter and start it up again and run it for a few minutes. Smoked like crazy - oil on the exhaust I suppose. Anyway that seemed to disperse the mozzies and I was able to install the switch and the relay.

I used a existing screw to mount the relay and I managed to fit the switch between the fuel gauge and the vacuum gauge. PO had an ammeter where the OD switch blanking hole was and I replaced it with the vacuum gauge.

I felt that the switch should go somewhere there so that's where it went. See pics:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0086.jpg[/IMG]

The relay just went where it is because that was where the screw was and it was close to where the wires came up from the gearbox. The two green wires that don't go anywhere are the reversing lights switch.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0085.jpg[/IMG]

I made up some short connectors to go from bullet connectors to spade connectors because I didn't want to cut the harness wires. Did that so it can go to standard if I desire. This, however, makes it look a bit messy.

Finished off the inside and put the bonnet back on. That means it's all done except for the driveshaft spacer and I spent some time drawing it up and thinking about how I want to do that. Decided to go with double set of studs so I only have nilock nuts to worry about. Long bolts I don't think would go in.
Here's the drawing of that which I've yet to make.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/Tailsshaftspacer.jpg[/IMG]

Well that's about it. I ran it again and tested the OD solenoid and tried to hear whether it changed when the OD was activated in 3rd and 4th.
Solenoid clicked in and out loud and clear and I think that I could hear the output speed change but I can't be sure. I'll have to wait till it's on the road to be absolutely sure.

If I had the speedo cable I could tell from that.

Posted 2012-05-10 05:30:37 by Chris W

Lump Back In And Functioning Again.

Tue, 08 May 2012 20:28:47 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

This is the morning after. It was too late yesterday (well earlier this morning, actually) to be bothered writing this up but I did put an entry on the forum [url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2061212,2061824#msg-2061824]click here[/url].

Started at about 9 am and immediately got side tracked with the side tappet covers.
I was pretty sure one of mine leaked so while the motor was out I thought I'd have a go at it. It was the front one and of course it leaked, the gasket was not thick enough to stick above the flange - even when new. I compared the old gasket with the piece that had come from the centre of the gasket when new and it had not compressed very much, if at all. It was always going to leak.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0073.jpg[/IMG]

You can see here that it doesn't fill the recess.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0074.jpg[/IMG]

So I covered everything and went off to try to by some thicker cork stock. Long story, short, no joy there so I used some thinner stuff I had and added it to the original gasket with lots of gasket goop. The back one is a different design and it was sealing well. I had to take it off to establish that but it went back on with a fresh coating of goop as well. If they leak now ...........!

Ok didn't actually get to the motor/g.box install 'till about 1 pm or something like that. Cleared the garage and lined up the car with the chain block.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0072.jpg[/IMG]

Moved the unit into position and hooked up the cable to it and the chain block while still on the stand.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0075.jpg[/IMG]

Lifted it up a little, unhooked the stand, lifted it clear of the guards, spun it around and pulled the car under it while letting it down gently. The chain block is very precise and it take no effort to raise or lower it just a little. I had almost everything left on the motor so it was a bit of a tight squeeze but with the trolley jack underneath to alter the angle as I went down and in, it finally was resting on the front engine mounts.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0077.jpg[/IMG]

A little jiggling while gently lifting and lowering and I was able to get the bolts for the mounts in.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0078.jpg[/IMG]

Next the infamous crossmember. It was then I realised that these weren't where I wanted them to be.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0079.jpg[/IMG]

Not such a big deal but I wanted to minimise the time I had to spend under the car.

Well, I managed to get them on without much drama. I actually found it easier to do it completely by feel with my eyes shut.
The crossmember was next and I installed the stay rod to it on the bench to try to make it easier and I'd already done the modification to the crossmember so by moving the supporting trolley jack away from the stay loop I installed the crossmember to the gearbox and then, using the jack to raise the whole lot proceeded to install the crossmember bolts. Wow, this was not going well until I realised that the OD gearbox uses different screw holes and these had not been used ever. After struggling with the bolts and actually getting all four in but unable to tighten, the penny dropped and one by one I took them out and ran a tap up the holes.
What a difference! No photos of the cross member unfortunately.

Anyway, I had to stop there as Sharon and David came home and were expecting dinner.

After dinner I went back out to clean up but ended up continuing and got everything else hooked up and gave it a test run.

Well one little hiccup. I must have damaged the metal fan on the front of the generator and it screamed like a banshee till I bent it back into shape. Took me a while to work out what the god awful noise was and there was a 'small' amount of panic when I started it up.

And I've got a fuel leak at the filter. Haven't looked at it in detail but I may have split the filter, plastic, generic just before the carbs.

However, all is well (ish).

The tailshaft is not connected yet but I engaged all the gears and the box is nice and quite. Not definitive yet but a good sign. Took me about an hour and a half to clean up and pack everything away.

It was just on 1 am when I'd finished and by the time I'd cleaned up and had a shower I didn't get to bed until about 2 am.

This morning I took these 2 pics:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0080.jpg[/IMG]

Still some work to do on the inside:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0081.jpg[/IMG]

It's 1.30 pm the next day and I've been to the Gym and I picked up a new fuel filter, a bit of fuel line, a generic switch and a simple relay. I'll fiddle about with those bits this afternoon - maybe! :)

Posted 2012-05-08 20:28:47 by Chris W

At Last! Ready To Put The 'lump' Back.

Mon, 07 May 2012 01:16:36 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Last 2 day have been 'fiddle about' days.
The wiring up and a few decisions to make about what to do about some issues have taken much longer than I had anticipated.

The new harness came with the reverse and OD harness and I'd packed it away a few years ago. Got it out and wired it up. The 3rd, 4th lockout switch had been replaced with a screw terminal version and rather than cut off the clips on the harness I modified some spade terminals and screwed them in and clipped the harness to them.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0063.jpg[/IMG]

Attached the harness to the side of the gearbox with a combination of cable ties and a 'P' clip. I drilled and tapped an unused spigot in the side of the gearbox. A bit DPO but the result is neat. Also drilled a couple of 3mm holes into casting webs to use cable ties. (Very DPO)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0064.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0065.jpg[/IMG]

Then it was time to address the adjustment of the OD solenoid. The manual was a bit sketchy in this area but it became clearer when I actually put power to the solenoid. It pulled in a lot further than I thought it would and it was clearer what the manual was describing.

I've covered the control arm up but it is clearly depicted in the manual. A 3/16" hole is in the brass control lever and it matches a hole in the casting behind it. At rest these two should line up. Well the at rest position is debatable and as the plunger can flop around all over the place when no power is flowing I determined close enough was good enough and went about adjusting the arm at the fully engaged position. Logic and the manual and the Moss video mentioned in a previous entry made it clear that the solenoid drew a lot of current when it was being activated but at the end of it's stroke it only needed a small current - less than 2amps to hold it there. A switching mechanism was built into the solenoid at the end of its pull stroke to drop the current from about 15 to 20 amps down to 2amps.
I just had to make sure that the plunger got to this position at the same time as moving the lever to almost it's full movement.
I needed to be able to measure up to 20 amps. Hmm, both my multimeters only go to about 500 Milli amps. I was almost at the point of giving up when I remembered the PO had an ammeter in the dash when I bought the car and started to search for where I'd put that when another light bulb moment and I remembered my old engine analyser that had been given to me maaany years ago but my college mates on my 21st. I sure it had a method of measuring alternator output so it must go into that kind of range. Well I dug it out and found that it did by using a shunt.
Used my jump start battery (almost flat) and hooked it up and got the 2 readings that I required - albeit a bit low because the jump starter was almost flat but there was enough to show a reading of about 10amps and then dropping to about 2amps.
High amp reading: (should be about 20 amps it's not because the battery was almost flat)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0069.jpg[/IMG]
Low amp reading: (Really just a deflection of the needle)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0070.jpg[/IMG]

I fiddled about to make sure I was stiil getting full movement on the arm when engaged and it was still a bit slack when disengaged. And I was done.

Used some locktite on the cover plug I got the other day and attached the cover,
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0066.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0067b.jpg[/IMG]

All done ready to go!

There was some discussion about the use of the vacuum switch and relay on the forum. I've decided not to use these at this time. I'll just put the link to the discussion by way of explanation.

[url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2059404,2059404#msg-2059404]Link to forum discussion here![/url]

Maybe the lump will go back in tomorrow. :)

Posted 2012-05-07 01:16:36 by Chris W

Another Busy And Productive Day.

Sat, 05 May 2012 07:50:08 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Got a fair bit done today and tomorrow I may be able to get the lump back in the car.

I took off the front cover of the gearbox and replaced the seal. The old one wasn't leaking and it looked ok but I had the new one anyway so...
Was very careful to make sure I had it sealed well. Plenty of gasket goop.

Then after a few pics of the innards I cleaned up the side plate and with a new gasket and plenty of goop sealed it up as well.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0053.jpg[/IMG]

3.6 Litres of engine oil and I was ready to attempt a test of the OD hydraulics. Using my corded hand drill and after scouring to find some suitable hose clamps and a piece of hose, we eventually came up with this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0056.jpg[/IMG]

It's a bit (OK a lot) rough but it functioned. Spinning the box in 4th and tweeking the lever by hand we were able to establish reasonably confidently that the hydraulics and the mechanism of the OD function. An audible and visual change in the speed of the output shaft was quite evident.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0057.jpg[/IMG]

The solenoid is new so as long as it functions and I set it up correctly, I feel sure I will be able to get this to function.

After a bit of drama I eventually removed the old spigot bearing. Tried the grease in the hole and a close fitting plunger and driving it out to no avail. Then used a length of 10mm threaded rod with a large nut on the end fed through and hooked over end of the bearing and pulled it out using a heavy length of steel with a hole in it as a slide hammer up against another nut on the other end. Took a while but it came out relatively easily. Cleaned everything out and using the old spigot drove the new one in flush with the front end of the hole. No photos of this procedure unfortunately.

After putting the new spigot bearing in and attaching the clutch using the spare 1st motion shaft as an alignment tool an old guy and a scrawny lad couldn't for the life of us get the two together.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0060.jpg[/IMG]

So a different approach was required.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0061.jpg[/IMG]

Dropped straight in - no fuss!

And so this is where we are up to tonight.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/PICT0062b.jpg[/IMG]

Stay tuned for tomorrows episode.

Posted 2012-05-05 07:50:08 by Chris W

Trying Out The Modified Lever.

Fri, 04 May 2012 04:17:45 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Today I polished the ball and the pivot of the lever. Used a piece of abrasive foam to make sure there were no rough patches and then buffed it on a cloth wheel in the drill press. This is to make sure the action is as smooth as possible. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0034.jpg[/IMG] I then attached the remote control unit and assembled the lever in the remote control unit with a smear of vaso' around the pivot. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0037b.jpg[/IMG] Went through all the gears checking the two switches with a multimeter to make sure they function correctly. I ended up swapping the reverse switch out of the other box as the on in the OD box was rusted on. I probably won't be using it anyway - MK1 no reversing lights - but I may want to put a small 3rd party reversing light later on so it's good to have it functioning. The new wiring harness I put in a few years ago has the wires for the reversing light so it's definitely something I may be inclined to do later. Tomorrow I'll change the front oil seal and finish the side inspection plate installation, fill with oil and see if I can test the OD function. I've also got the new solenoid ready to go and I found this Moss video which gives me some good information on the electrical side of the solenoid. [url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLVoM4On49k[/url] Chris

Posted 2012-05-04 04:17:45 by Chris W

Modifying The Gear Lever.

Thu, 03 May 2012 06:36:32 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

There's 20 photos explaining this so this entry is a looong one. Sit back and enjoy the ride.
I'd mentally done this a few times in my mind and it was dependent on a few things going my way.
Here's what I'm dealing with:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0006b.jpg[/IMG]

The bottom of the lever is about 8mm too long. Everything else seems ok and Peter had been there before so I was confident that the principal was sound.

With the nylon bush in the right place the top is this far out.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0010b.jpg[/IMG]

With the top in the right place the bush is too far down.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0008b.jpg[/IMG]

About 45mm overall needs to be 36mm, about.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0012b.jpg[/IMG]

This bit needs to be about 36mm in total.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0011b.jpg[/IMG]

Here we are set up ready to cut. Too hard to use a hacksaw - have to use an angle grinder. This is a leap of faith!
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0014b.jpg[/IMG]

Well there's no turning back now. I was disappointed in my apparent inability to cut freehand more accurately than this.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0016.jpg[/IMG]

For my plan to work I needed to be able to drill into the ends. I wanted to drill through the centre of the shaft before I cut it but it was far too hard. I was hoping that it was only case hardened.
Yes it is only case hardened. That's a blurry centre punch indent. The end of the shaft before cutting simply flattened this same punch.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0015b.jpg[/IMG]

Small end cleaned up and bevelled holding it in the drill press and using the angle grinder whilst turning at a moderate speed. Can't do this with the other part so me next cut has to be better.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0017.jpg[/IMG]

After some careful measuring this is how much had to come off - cut has to be straighter than the previous cut!
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0020.jpg[/IMG]

I was able to do a straighter cut and cleaned it up on my linisher, and put a bevel on it as well. A 3mm hole is drilled in both ends.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0021.jpg[/IMG]

Small end drilled. These were an easy drill the metal being quite soft inside.
The end having a flat on it made it easier to mount. The drill holes were only about 3mm deep, suitable for a rod of about 5mm long being used as a spigot.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0024b.jpg[/IMG]

Here we have the rod in place in the big end:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0025b.jpg[/IMG]

The assembled end before welding. The spigot was not in the exact centre but as they were both 'wrong' turning one around found the position where the errors cancelled each other out.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0026b.jpg[/IMG]

Setup for welding was a bit tricky and I could only align by eye.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0027.jpg[/IMG]

Welded together. I made 2 welds opposite each other then one each side ground out to get full penetration then welded the sides. That means there were 4 welds around the join.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0028.jpg[/IMG]

The fact it was case hardened has another advantage with the welding. It means that the bulk of the metal stays basically the same composition and any heating and/or cooling should have minimal impact on the strength of the component. Any heat treatment would only effect the surface and it's only the surface of the end ball that may be effected and it's enclosed in the nylon bush anyway.

Grinding down the weld was tricky but it doesn't have to be perfect. I did this by hand off hand grinding on a 9" bench grinder and touched up with a strip of emery cloth. (Old linisher belts come in handy for this sort of thing)
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0030.jpg[/IMG]

Well that's it. Here's in position from the top.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0031b.jpg[/IMG]

and here's a blurry shot in position from the bottom.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Gear%20lever%20shortening/PICT0032b.jpg[/IMG]

Preliminary movements seem good. I'll assemble it completely and try it's movement out more fully tomorrow.

On another topic. I also assembled the OD unit onto the gearbox this morning and it went very smoothly.
Some pictures of that are below as well:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0002b.jpg[/IMG]

Making sure the splines are lined up way down here and the thing just fell together.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0004b.jpg[/IMG]

It was a good day!

Posted 2012-05-03 06:36:32 by Chris W

OD Disassembly And Reassembly

Tue, 01 May 2012 23:09:51 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Been a couple of days since last entry.

Phone call to Heritage, new solenoid $80 including delivery - ouch! But wait, here's the kicker. The little cover/plug at the end of the solenoid, number 36 here:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/Solenoidendplug.jpg[/IMG]

$50 odd WOW! Needless to saw I'm just getting the solenoid. Should be here before the weekend.

Went back and started attacking the OD unit and pulled it down as far as I dare. I really just wanted to confirm that the clutch material on the inner and outer cone clutch was serviceable and there was nothing obviously amiss inside.
Here's a series of photos of what I found:

Inside forward case - bush looks ok.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0002.jpg[/IMG]

Inside rear case - Shows the outer gear and the roller clutches. Decided not to go down further.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0001.jpg[/IMG]

Cone clutch - Shows the thickness of clutch material - worn but serviceable IMO
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0003.jpg[/IMG]

Planetary gear set - The other side of this showed some sign of previous work done. Also shows the annular clutch ring in good condition.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0004.jpg[/IMG]

Innards overview - Some evidence of some sludge but seems ok.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0005.jpg[/IMG]

Well all seems OK. I took some time to clean it out as best I could and started to put it back together. All going swimmingly and after cleaning it all up and putting it all back together I glanced across at the manual insert that I'd been referring to when I pulled it down and this picture attracted my attention:

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/Planetarygearalign.jpg[/IMG]

It mentions the importance of aligning the planetary gears in the carrier before assembly.
DAMN! I didn't do that - so it was back in again to fix that. When I was splitting the case again one of the studs backed out of the case rather than the nut come off. On closer examination the studs thread was galled and jammed the nut. Here's a pic:

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0006.jpg[/IMG]

When I checked the others there were 2 more that showed signs of damage. I replaced the one pictured with a long threaded bolt with the head cut off and used some loctite on the lower end. The others I was able to clean them up sufficiently with a die nut before putting it back together again.

That was yesterday.
This morning I went and tried to find an alternative to the 'solid gold' end plug and found this at Pirtek:

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT00022.jpg[/IMG]

$5 and I'm happy.

Posted 2012-05-01 23:09:51 by Chris W

The Solenoid

Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:10:35 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

This unit is pretty exposed on a gearbox that has obviously been kicking around someone's workshop for the past 20 odd years. The cover over the end was split and the wire coming off had seen better days.
I had visions of the end being taken off and the solenoid being cleaned up and all being well.

Closer examination. however, revealed this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0068.jpg[/IMG]

What a mess!
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0067.jpg[/IMG]

I'm not even going to bother attempting a connection to it to see if it functions. The state of the points on the unit tell me that it needs replacing.
I'll ring Heritage tomorrow and see how much a new one is. I also need the cap over the end. It appears to screw in to cover the actuating end of the solenoid.

Posted 2012-04-29 06:10:35 by Chris W

No Joy With The 'danged' Non Return Valve

Sun, 29 Apr 2012 05:58:11 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Well after a day and a half I've given up on this little bugger.
Will not budge and I fear that any further attempts will damage something.
This is what I was dealing with, down in a recess with just 2 small flats to grip and it is supposed to unscrew. Can't get anything substantial down there, it just laughed at needle nosed pliers:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/Nonreturnvalve2.jpg[/IMG]
It measured 7/16" across the flats so I sacrificed an 11mm socket and made this:
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0049.jpg[/IMG]
Alas, It simply screwed itself off and after several tries with a little refining inbetween I gave up on that and asked for help from the forum.
[url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2052499,2052499#msg-2052499]Link to forum post[/url]
The discussion is still going but I didn't get much joy there. Suppose that not too many had dissembled an early OD. I did get a suggestion which I had thought of and that was to press a piece of tube over the socket to give it more support.
Today I did that and here's a picture of the reinforced socket in the hole ready to try.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0054.jpg[/IMG]
But a similar result and the socket simply screwed itself out again.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0059.jpg[/IMG]
It just doesn't want to unscrew. I toyed with the idea of having one more go machining a much more closely fitting tool all around the part and here is the start of that.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/PICT0062.jpg[/IMG]
But to be honest I've simply lost motivation with that and have finally decided to 'let sleeping dogs lie'
The pump can remain in there as it is and I will simply flush it out as much as possible. I don't want to run the risk of damaging it. I did get the whole thing to move slightly but that was with more force than I felt comfortable putting on the part.
So we move on!

Posted 2012-04-29 05:58:11 by Chris W

Made A Start On The OD.

Fri, 27 Apr 2012 04:04:56 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

I had this sheet of 8mm steel about 900mm x 600mm that came from school. It'd been kicking around for a while and they wanted to get rid of it. I grabbed it thinking it might be good for a BBQ plate. Anyway when David moved back home he brought two steel framed tables with him that I'd fixed up for him. They too were surplus from school. They were a bit rough but the frames were solid. One was worse than the other so I took the timber top off, cut it down to fit the piece of steel plate and screwed the plate to it.
Makes an excellent work table.
After some rearranging of the garage I put the 'new' table next to the new cabinet I made a few months ago and setup to attack the OD.
I drilled a 1" hole on the table - it already had a bunch of 1/2" holes in it so another won't matter, and stood the OD gearbox on end with the input shaft sticking in the hole.
Using the manual as reference, I've started to disassemble the OD.
So far so good and although I've only just started no obvious issues. pistons came out easily and I was able to clean out the operating valve with a 1/8" drill bit as per the manual and I was able to get out some hard buildup. It's good when you find something to fix!
The non return valve came out ok but the valve body has me stumped. Manual says to unscrew but it only has 2 flats and it's recessed in a hole.
That's as far as I got tonight. I will have a go at making a suitable spanner to remove it. Maybe tomorrow.

No photos yet, will take some tomorrow.
Here's one from Photobucket showing where the pistons come from. There are behind the 2 bridges and although the O rings feel hard they look alright. I've got new ones and they will be replaced.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/P1030657.jpg[/IMG]

Posted 2012-04-27 04:04:56 by Chris W

Continuation Of Previous Entry.

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 23:46:40 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Below is a pic of the inside of the front cover from the OD gearbox - the one with the bronze bushed laygear instead of rollers.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0030.jpg[/IMG]
In this closeup you can clearly see where the layshaft has spun and chewed out the cover at some stage.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/Spunlayshaftdamage.jpg[/IMG]
It was suggested to me by Ross at Heritage that according to a mechanic they have the bushed laygear was a repair used when the rollers had really messed up the laygear. If the rollers had seized I dare say the laygear would have suffered significant damage and this is the probable explanation. IMO anyway.

In my "switch and swap" I replaced this with the cover from the box which had the rollers on the layshaft. It's on the gearbox so I can't show you a pic of a good one.

I mentioned Heritage earlier. Well I contacted them a week or so ago about the clutch kit and a few other bits and had been dealing with Ross from them. Anyway, after we came back from our trip away I rang them again to add a few things to the order and mentioned that I'd be down in the next few days to pickup the order and left it at that.
It transpired that we all went down yesterday to sort out Davids flat and finalise his move back home and I'd take the opportunity to go across to smithfield and get the clutch bits and see about some other stuff related to the switch and swap.
Horrendous weather yesterday, rain and flash flooding. Anyway got to Heritage and just about to get out of the car when my phone rang. It was Ross from Heritage ringing to see when I might be able to sort out about the order and checking what I wanted doing with it. Ha, I said Wow, you must be psychic, I just outside. We both laughed and I ran inside (pissing down) and he had all the stuff on the counter ready for me.
A bit of discussion about the clutch and then we compared the part numbers of the bits from a 3syncro and a 3syncro OD and found that the retainer and the circlip is the same but the spring is different. Great news! I added the spring and a new nylon bush to the order and discussed the lever. A new lever $155 + ::o No thanks!
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0031.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0032.jpg[/IMG]
Anyway it appears that the levers may be interchangeable or close to it. Peter, from the forum answered this question here: [url=http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/read.php?1,2042263,2043426#msg-2043426]Peters response[/url]
So that's what I'm looking at doing. Stay tuned!

Posted 2012-04-18 23:46:40 by Chris W

Catch Up With Gearbox.

Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:11:09 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Been pretty slack with these entries lately, a few personal issues have intervened and my son David has moved back home for a bit. :) We've also been away for a week to Salamander Bay and a good time was had by all. Because we were going to be away I packed everything away and haven't got back into it yet. But, there's a bit to document from a fortnight ago so I hope I can remember it all. Got some photos at [url=https://app.photobucket.com/u/sweep_2006/a/f8e37d81-8c9e-4f82-bcd5-2c6d09b75479]PhotoBucket[/url] and the images here are linked from there. OK after the clutch failure and having to wait for bits I decided to attack both the 3sync box and the OD box. I still haven't touched the OD unit but I pulled the OD g/box down and found some strange anomalies. It's obviously had some major work done to it and looks like it's done some work since then. Still apart from the 1st gear it all seems ok. One thing which was unusual was a bushed laygear instead of roller bearings. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0010.jpg[/IMG] Has been suggested that this is a fix from a 'Goldseal' factory rebuild. Also suggested that it was an uncommon fix for a badly degraded unit. Anyway it's not showing a huge amount of wear so that augers well for the rest of the box. Didn't find any other surprises except for 1 steel baulk ring on 2nd gear. Not a big deal. Anyway then went to the 3sync box and pulled it down as well. A nice surprise here was that the laygear looked almost new. PO Ben apparently was telling the truth re: that. :) [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0011.jpg[/IMG] The layshafts are the same so I swapped the roller arrangement into the OD box as well as the 1st gear and I took the reverse idler and shaft as well. The first motion syncro had a tooth missing so that whole arrangement is swapped in as well. Using the new gasket set I'd purchased from Heritage some time ago I've rebuild the gearbox in the OD box with the above swaps and attached permanently the OD adapter extension to the end. Below is a few of the relevant pics during that process. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0007.jpg[/IMG] The OD innards are at the back. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0008.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0009.jpg[/IMG] The 2 cases side by side. The stud arrangement is different where the extension attaches. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0014.jpg[/IMG] This is them both laid out while I picked the best of each without getting to involved in going right down. Didn't want to get involved with bearing removal. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0015.jpg[/IMG] These are the bits we'd decided to take from the 3syncro. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0024.jpg[/IMG] and these are the bits from the main shaft that are to go together. You can see the different baulk rings. used the steel baulring because that was the gearset it was in and it looked ok - actually all the rings looked good with all still showing the ridges present. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/The%20switch%20and%20swap/PICT0025.jpg[/IMG] This is the completed mainshaft with the 'new' 1st gear on. The putting together of the box went ok with not a lot of issues. Assembling the jigsaw puzzle of the selectors was a bit tricky but it eventually went in right. The assembly of the 2 shafts with the loose needle rollers between is a bit nerve racking 'cause you can't really tell if any have been dislodged. But it's together and it turns freely. Unfortunately no photos of it together - yet. This entry getting a bit long so I'll continue in another entry.

Posted 2012-04-18 20:11:09 by Chris W

Postscript To The Clutch Shudder.

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 07:32:51 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

Showing the clutch to a friend today, I noticed something which is illustrated by the series of pics below.

The first one has the pressure plate resting on the clutch plate to hold the clutch surface level. Check out the angle of the thrust bearing surface which has the straight edge on it.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/P1030662.jpg[/IMG]

Measuring the difference from side to side shows a serious slope on that surface.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/P1030666.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/P1030667.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/P1030670.jpg[/IMG]

This issue explains why the graphite was so worn down on the thrust race and also explains the shudder.
The big question is why did it occur? I'm sure the clutch worked ok initially.

Posted 2012-04-02 07:32:51 by Chris W

Couple Of Days Later And A Plan Has Emerged.

Sun, 01 Apr 2012 18:45:02 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

As I have to wait for the new clutch kit I've resurrected a plan that was rattling around in my mind for a while.
The OD box I acquired a few years ago now is identical to the box I just took out except for the OD. The date stamps are about 8 months apart in '67 so I'm going to assume the 'gearbox' innards are the same.
A cursory look inside each indicate to me that the worn 1st/reverse gears in the OD box are ok? in the other box and some - one in particular of the other gears in the non od box appear to have lost some of the case hardening appear to be ok in the OD box.
So I'm going to strip them both and mix and match the 'good' stuff into the OD box and stuff that back into the car.

I've already taken off the OD assembly and am reluctant to dismantle that. It turned about strangely, having a hard spot in it. I took it to the Auto transmission guy who has had my Patrol and fixing it, (another expensive story for another forum [url=http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forums/showthread.php?10081-4292-later-the-GQ-is-home.]Here![/url] ) anyway he's already expressed no interest in doing the project so he's sort of impartial and his opinion after checking it out was that it's not worth risking a dismantle - just put it in.
So that's what I'm going to do after establishing that the solenoid works.
Any bearings that are easy to get and replace in the gearbox, I'll do that too.

So that's the plan!

I'll take some pics of the OD and link to them from here later today.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/P1030657.jpg[/IMG]

From what I can see here, there seems to be a significant thickness of clutch material here. Presumably the inside clutch would be the same.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/P1030660.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Overdrive%20unit%20closeups/P1030661.jpg[/IMG]

I really don't want to pull this down!

Posted 2012-04-01 18:45:02 by Chris W

Next Morning And The Saga Continues.

Thu, 29 Mar 2012 00:41:39 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

10.20am next morning. Had a bad night last night woke up at 5.00am in a cold sweat hypo. Happens very seldom and pisses me off when it does. The change in routine yesterday I attempted to mitigate with my insulin dosage, unsuccessfully. Anyway that's the reason for the late start. Getting old with Diabetes sucks big time. These comments relate to questions posed by others and the photos which are here. [url]http://s114.photobucket.com/user/sweep_2006/media/Clutch%20revisit/P1030626.jpg.html?sort=6&o=35[/url] Motor and gearbox mounts were new at the same time and I'd looked at those and there seem solid and fine. This was something I had thought of as a definite possibility as well. The gearbox stay rubber bush is a bit 'gooey' but it cops a bit of oil so it's to be expected and I'll replace it. It was new also. Flywheel was machined at the time also. You can still see the machining marks on it. Maybe the surface was a bit coarse but that doesn't show more wear on the clutch disk on that side. Clutch fork doesn't show any play at the pivot but the pivots on the actual thrust bearing seem a bit dry and gritty. I suspect the bearing material is a bit soft. I will replace it. I don't believe that I'm a 'clutch rider' and always shift to neutral at lights and release the clutch pedal. Did have the clutch pedal return spring break a few months ago and haven't got around to replacing it yet but the clutch shudder pre dates that. First motion shaft has a little play but not that much to my untrained eye. The six springs on the clutch plate cannot be moved with my hands. The clutch plate sits flat on the flywheel and on the pressure plate. Now, one thing I have discovered. There is a ring of excessive wear on the pressure plate and some signs of shudder where the line of rivets are. And the clutch disc is worn more on the pressure plate side than the flywheel side. I'll try to get a photo of the wear pattern on the pressure plate. It has certainly not worn evenly and seems to have 'hard' spots in it. There is a definite 'ridge' at the edge of wear on the pressure plate. The wear pattern on the pressure plate is not even around the surface. Below is one side that I described above: [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/P1030648.jpg[/IMG] Below that is a pic on the opposite side which shows a smoother more even wear pattern. [IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/P1030651.jpg[/IMG] Some more closeup pics are here: [url]http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/Pressure%20plate%20closeups/[/url] Maybe this is the 'smoking gun'. Anyway I'm going to replace the whole lot.

Posted 2012-03-29 00:41:39 by Chris W

Quest To Find Source Of Clutch Shudder.

Thu, 29 Mar 2012 00:34:14 -0500

Chris Williams' Journal --

There's a post on the forum dealing with this and much of what is written here comes from that post.

2.30pm here, started about 1pm, just came in to have a cup of tea while I wait for the gearbox to drain.
Following the library checklist and trying to do a minimalist stuff removal. I'm only doing the clutch - no 'while I'm at its'.

5.15pm and I'm struggling with that seasickness thing. I've thrown up once and felt better straight away after that. I've only got one side of the g/box cross member to take off, hook up the chain block, remove front engine mounts and I think that's it.

But I feel real bad and I'm sorry I started. I need a bit of recovery time.

Well it's out and apart. 9.15pm here and I'm having some dinner.

Got it out about 7.30pm and on the stand. Split the gearbox off and nothing seems to be out of place or loose or anything.
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/P1030622.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/P1030623.jpg[/IMG]

Apart from what appears to me to be excessive wear for 10k mls it all seems ok.

[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/P1030626.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n255/sweep_2006/Clutch%20revisit/P1030630.jpg[/IMG]

I'll inspect the thrust bearing and lever tomorrow more closely but DAMN I wanted to find a smoking gun.

Just occurred to me that I haven't said why all this, especially because the prospect of a Nissan box conversion was where I was at, last time we were here. I pretty much gave up on the Nissan because of the damage to the reverse gear and the prospect of throwing good money after bad. The deteriorating clutch meant I had to do 'something'!

Some history, if you've come in late.

Rebuild few years ago. New clutch plate, pressure plate, thrust bearing and rebuilt MC and slave. New hose and flywheel machined.
After a while it developed a bad shudder on takeup in 1st and 2nd but only sometimes. Couldn't find anything external so I figured had to be something internal.

Got to the stage that when it played up it became almost impossible to take off in 1st and change to second without the car jumping about something fierce.

I suppose I'll just put a new clutch kit in and see what happens. While it's out I'll have a bit of a look in the gearbox to see how it compares with the crappy OD that I've got. Maybe some swap and change may be in order.

Posted 2012-03-29 00:34:14 by Chris W