Kurt ILL's Journal

This past weekend I not only rebuilt the brake master cylinder but also upgraded the clutch master cylinder as well. I went on You Tube to view a video on rebuilding the brake master cylinder and I must admit it was pretty accurate. The only real problem I had was holding down the initial spring so I could remove the first spring clamp. After some thought, I built a "tool" which made this job simple. If anyone is interested, send me an email and I will show you what I made; anyone can make one. Everything went pretty smoothly following the instructions.

I had the frame that holds both master cylinders, the cover plate and both peddles media blasted. I primed and painted all parts and let them dry a couple of days. Then I assembled both pieces and mounted them to the frame. This is where I sort of went in the wrong direction; I also mounted both peddles. Little did I realize they would not fit back through the hole in the deck when mounted to the frame. I ended up taking them off and mounting them after I secured the frame. Here is where I made another small mistake; hook up the brake and clutch lines to the appropriate ports before you bolt the assemble into place. It's a bitch to get them lined up and started after the fact unless you have "little, tiny" hands.

I had a friend help me bleed the break lines; noticed that the original brake hoses on the front are dried and cracked so I will have to purchase a new set. Also noticed that the heater valve is stuck and will not move. Maybe that is why the heat seems like it is always on; it is!!!. Also noticed that the choke cable is sticking and does not move freely in and out. Is there no end to this job and I'm really just getting started. Anyway it was a very productive weekend and me and the MG went back on the road again. Tested the brakes on a good stretch of road; locked up the tires pretty good; with little play in the peddle. Clutch worked good also.

I am now planning my next order to Moss Motors to get a little farther down this road called MGB resurrection. Stay tuned for the next chapter.

Just a short update: Replaced the boot light switch and now the boot light is operational. Also replaced the boot latch; previous one came apart and I had to destroy it to get in the trunk.

Brake master cylinder is leaking and purchased a rebuild kit. Will update when I finish and re-install the unit.

Car has been running really smooth. I forgot how fun these little British cars were; just might have to get another one.

This weekend, I started working on the marker and parking lights to see if I could figure out why they were not working. I moved the red wires from the top position on the, 4 place, fuse block to the second position where another red lead was attached and behold the driver's side rear tail light and marker lights came on. Then I moved to the front and discovered that the red leads on the driver's side parking and marker lights were not connected as well as the black ground wire. These connections are located under the horn and are difficult to see. Once all the connections were made, all the lights are operational, including the map light on the center console. All I need to do now is replace the boot light switch and all the lights in the MG will be operational.

I have been reading that the majority of electrical problems come from improper or no grounding. This was one of the problems here.

Also changed the thermostat to a 160 degree to help run cooler here in Arizona. Took the old girl out for a spin Saturday afternoon and she ran like a champ.

Next is to start working on rebuilding the twin SU carburetors to replace the single, down draft Weber. I am attempting to put the car back to the original configuration.

I continue to do little things that turn out to be big projects. For instance, I was just going to replace a fastener and the seal on the battery cover and noticed that a previous owner had, for some reason, cut the edge of the opening in two places and bent them back under the panel. It took some time, but I managed to get the two sections bent back and somewhat in place so the seal would work properly.

I also have replace the clutch, brake and accelerator peddle pads. Installed a new cigarette lighter (for use as a power outlet) and sun visors on the passenger and driver's side. The replacement sun visor I purchased from Moss Motors did not fit when the top was in the up position. It has a bend in the mount that the OE doesn't have. I will try to return it for something else I could use. I have been fixing some electrical issues where someone just spliced the two ends of a wire together and wrapped them in electrical tape. I soldered them properly and covered the joint with shrink tubing. Chasing electrical problems is a real challenge. The wires on the map light are brown/white but the schematic says they are purple/white. I can't seem to locate where these wires go.

I removed the back panel and discovered it was dated 1977. The VIN number plate says 1974. The rest of the interior looks like a 77 or later and is really in poor shape. I am going to replace all the panels and carpet with a period correct interior sometime down the road. I think "Georgia Jean" is a compilation of many different years of parts. Oh well, I bought her as a project car so it's OK. She drives like a dream.

Recently purchased a 1974, white, MGB in need of some TLC. Have performed the following repairs:

Installed new speedometer cable and re-mounted speedometer in the dash.
Now operational

Installed new oil pressure, copper line.

Removed broken aftermarket radio and wiring and installed "MG" radio blanking plate.

Installed new reverse light lenses and lights.

Installed new license plate lenses and lights. One light is still not operational; will have to trace the wiring.

Installed new rear view and driver's side mirrors.